Hanging wallpaper can be a daunting task, but the repetitiveness process makes it easy to master. Photo / Getty Images
As a survey reveals 30% of Gen Z-ers can’t identify a screwdriver, we reveal the expert tips for effective home improvements.
The revelation this week that almost a quarter of Gen Z adults (aged 18 to 27) say they’d rather pay a professional to change a light bulb than do it themselves, according to research from Halfords, was food for thought. Some, apparently, fork out up to £1300 ($2832) a year paying professionals to do household tasks. The reasons behind this prodigal spending include concerns around “a light bulb being too hot”, the risk of falling off a ladder, and a reluctance to “mess around with electrics”. The report also states that 30% of those surveyed could not identify a screwdriver.
Despite countless DIY videos on social media platforms such as YouTube and TikTok, it seems many would rather call in a professional (or a parent) than attempt even straightforward tasks themselves. Here, then, is a guide to the DIY tasks that everyone should be able to do.
All that grease, soap gunk and unwanted hair tends to build up somewhere; usually in the U-bend or trap (the pipe under the sink). If the water isn’t draining properly from your sink, a good starting point is to attack the plughole. Pour boiling water down it several times, or push a fine brush (such as an interdental toothbrush) through the strainer gaps to dislodge any debris. A solution of equal measures of baking soda (pour that first) and white vinegar into the plughole can work wonders. Leave it for up to 30 minutes, then douse with boiling water.
A plunger or a drain auger (a long flex that can be fed down the pipe) can help with more stubborn blockages, but if none of this works, you might need to remove and clean the U-bend. Place a towel and a small bucket underneath, then carefully unscrew the joints holding the U-bend to the in-flowing and out-flowing pipes. An adjustable wrench (hardware store again) will loosen them.
If the joints are tight, spray with WD-40 or firmly tap with a hammer (this disrupts the grip). Once the U-bend is free, discard the build-up of muck, and clean with a brush or cloth. Replace and gently retighten the joints. Remember not to clamp them on too tightly in case you need to remove them again in the future.
Like most things, grout deteriorates with age. To smarten up your tiles, remove the loose or discoloured grout with a grout removal tool (or a small knife), being careful not to scratch the tiles, and wipe down. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the tile grout – it shouldn’t be too wet, or it won’t hold. Alternatively, choose a pre-mixed grout.
Use a grout float, a plastic spreader or your fingers (if it’s a small area) to press the grout into the gaps, making sure they are completely filled. Leave for around 10–15 minutes, then gently wipe away any excess from the surface of the tiles. It’s best to work in small sections so the grout doesn’t start setting before you’ve done this. Leave for 24 hours before exposure to water.
In most cases, you’ll need to access the inner workings of your tap to decipher what’s going on, so check the manufacturer’s guidelines if possible.
First, turn off your water supply at the stopcock (or isolating valve under the sink) and run the tap to clear any water in the pipes. Before you start, plug the sink so you don’t lose any important gubbins down the plughole.
Remove the outer casing or tap head – usually, you’ll see a screw holding this in place. Once you’ve done this, the tap body/headgear assembly should be visible, which, again, will be held in place by a screw or nut. Remove with a screwdriver or spanner. Once you can see the interior of your tap, you’ll spot the culprit – usually a worn washer or an expired cartridge. These can easily be replaced and then the tap reassembled. Last thing, if the threads on any of your connections feel loose, apply plumber’s tape (a thin, white tape) to ensure a watertight seal.
If your radiator is lukewarm, it could mean you have an air block. You will need a radiator key to release (bleed) the trapped air, which can be bought from any hardware shop or online for a small price.
If you live in a house, it’s worth starting at the top and working your way down as air rises and so is more likely to get trapped upstairs. Once your heating has been turned off and your radiator is completely cool, insert your key into the small round or square-shaped valve, usually found at the top of the radiator. Keep an old cloth handy, and a container to catch any drips.
Gently turn the valve towards you until you hear a hissing sound – this is the air escaping. There may also be a release of a small amount of water. Once the hissing stops and the escaping water comes out in a steadier flow (this means the air is gone), close the valve.
Any reputable decorator will tell you, it’s all about the prep. To fill in any cracks or nicks in the wall before painting, first use a wire brush or scraper to remove any loose plaster or paint, then wipe down the area to get rid of dust. Choose a filler that is suitable for your wall type (you may want to opt for a flexible filler if the cracks are near doors or windows). Use a small amount of filler at a time, gradually building it up with a putty knife and pushing it into the cracks.
It should ultimately end up being level with the wall’s surface and as smooth as you can get it while the filler is still pliable. Allow to dry before you sand off any rough edges. If the filler sinks during the drying process, simply apply another layer. Clean the area with a damp cloth before painting.
Identify the sticking point. A change in temperature can expand the wood. Open and close your door gently to detect where it’s catching. Use coarse sandpaper (40–60 grit) wrapped around a sanding block (this gives you a better grip and more friction) to rub down the offending area, testing the door frequently to see if you’ve removed enough. Finish with a fine sandpaper to smooth things off and wipe down. If the door is painted, finish by applying an undercoat and a top coat of paint.
This is potentially a daunting task, especially if there’s a pattern to align, but the repetitive process means you’ll soon upskill. Start by prepping your walls (fill cracks, remove dust) and taking down curtains. You’ll need a long table to unroll your wallpaper on and cut it to length. Measure your wall from ceiling to skirting board/floor and then cut your wallpaper with long sharp scissors, leaving an extra 10cm at the top and bottom to allow for adjustments.
To ensure the first strip hangs straight, you’ll need the guide of a vertical line. This can be done with a plumb line (a weight on a string; you can make your own with household string and something like a stone or a heavy bolt, but it must be the full length of your wall), pinned at the top point of your wall.
Use a soft wallpaper brush to apply paste to the back of your wallpaper (read manufacturer’s instructions), and then position the paper, allowing an overhang of the extra few centimetres at each end for trimming afterwards.
Smooth the wallpaper, removing any air bubbles, from the centre outwards with a wallpaper hanging brush or smoother. Finally, gently ease the wallpaper overhang into the right angle of the ceiling (or the edge of the cornice) at the top and the edge of the skirting board at the bottom, then trim away the excess with a cutter or scissors.
First, pull the wire on the back of the picture from its middle so it’s in a “hanging position”, and measure the distance from that point to the top of the frame – this gives you the “drop” measurement. Use this and mark on your wall to where your nail or hook will need to be.
Most homes have interior drywalls, which will hold a small nail or hook for lightweight pictures. But if your picture is heavier, you will need a stronger “wall anchor” (a metal self-drilling anchor or a plastic casing for the screw which expands and adds strength once in the wall).
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