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Home / Lifestyle

Restaurant review: Verona Cafe, Auckland CBD

Herald on Sunday
20 Jun, 2015 01:00 AM4 mins to read

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A kahawai bahn mi at Verona Cafe. Photo / Chris Loufte

A kahawai bahn mi at Verona Cafe. Photo / Chris Loufte

Address:169 Karangahape Rd, Auckland
Phone: (09) 307 0508
Rating out of 10: Food: 4, Service: 4, Value: 6, Ambience: 8

Verona had been an interesting choice from the start. One of K Rd's favourites since it opened 23 years ago, Verona Cafe has been a wine, beer and jamming place for musicians and artists throughout the city. Now, we heard, management had come up with a new, fresh, organic-based food menu, too, so off we went.

We arrived and were shown to a cosy, leather-seated booth, where our dining companions were sitting under a rather graceful painting of Albert Einstein's famous quote: "Nothing will benefit human health and increase chances for survival of life on Earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet."

But there the tableau ended. Our friends were looking glumly at a plastic-coated menu offering around five choices that sounded nothing like a fancy organic vegetarian menu. There was the fish sandwich, fried chicken salad, pork belly sandwich, halloumi salad, and the big breakfast.

It was all looking a little grim when finally one of us had the bright idea to ask if there were any specials. Off strode our waiter to ask the chef through his little serving hatch out back. Yes, there were!

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"Tonight's special is braised lamb with spinach, there's also fresh gurnard."

Things were looking up. The bread and dips starter on the menu turned out to be delicious: home-made white dough that had been rolled around a red filling which was probably paprika, then baked and sliced thin. Chef served it hot beside hummus, herb butter and a dark red chutney. The only problem was there wasn't enough. We wolfed it down and asked for more.

Meanwhile, our wine arrived from the exceptionally narrow range. No one bothered to tell us that Verona is more of a beer joint and stocks a huge cellar of craft beers from The Sawmill Cafe in Leigh.

As for the food, the braised lamb arrived first, sitting lonely in its white bowls, liberally coated in fragrant gravy and, in deference to Dr Einstein, perhaps, topped with a sprinkling of raw spinach. There were no other accompaniments: no rice, no couscous, no mashed potatoes, but the lamb itself was excellent and the serving generous.

Our other two meals offered carbohydrate to burn. My delicate and perfectly cooked fresh gurnard was jammed in a huge Subway-style bread roll, overflowing with matchstick carrots and chopped lettuce. The roll itself was dull beyond belief, and the whole thing was only just rescued by a delicious aioli: hardly my idea of dinner.

Brian got an identical roll but his contained pork belly, which he insisted was burned and tough and so small in quantity I only managed to get a tiny taste of pure fat to try. "That was the best bit," he grumbled.

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Then our second helping of bread and dips arrived and we romped through that.
By then things were hotting up at Verona. While we sneaked to the bar for a piece of beetroot and carrot cake and an almond croissant, a couple of men started stacking away the tables opposite us. Then a keyboard appeared and a set of classy-looking drums. Next thing Michael Martyniuk started on the synthesiser bass and all was forgiven.

The music, even his unaccompanied warm-up, was cool, sexy and mesmerising. Soon Michael was joined by Nick Williams on drums, and people drifted in from the bar and by 9pm it was all on.

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After a welcome to "Tuesday live music nights, open mic," the MC moved over for a youngish, ponytailed guy in jeans who sang one of the most haunting, original blues numbers I've ever heard.

"Bring it back, baby," he crooned, and the crowd replied, "Bring it right back, baby."

Then, after another equally soulful, off-the-cuff composition, punctuated with high screams, he just got up and left.

Next up was a younger guy, then another. The crowd was in ecstasy, eyes closed, heads nodding, fingers moving to the air guitars... and so it went.

We left at 11.30 having had one of the best nights in years, a night that went right to the heart of what K Rd is all about. A night we won't forget.

Our meal: $157 for two bread and dip starters, four main courses, two desserts, five glasses of wine and a beer.

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Wine list: Short and unexciting, though the beer selection, modelled on and supplied by Leigh's Sawmill Cafe and craft brewery, is excellent.

Verdict: Verona assures us it's about to offer a new menu but, in the meantime, be sure to ask about the specials, order the bread and dips, drink beer and stay on for the musicians.

- Canvas

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