Taylor Boutique designer, Vicki Taylor, says the designs for winter were inspired by the feeling of being wrapped and enclosed. Photo / Supplied
Date: February 29, 8.30pm
Who's who at this year's festival of fashion? Some of New Zealand's top designers and well-loved labels will present their autumn/winter collections at the New Zealand Fashion Festival, with nightly runway shows showcasing the latest trends and what's available in store. What to expect on the runway? We find out the details of each designer, and a little about their approach to the season.
TRELISE COOPER
Designer Trelise Cooper
The Trelise Cooper collection was inspired by antique bell jars found in dusty antique stores, and the strange birds and creatures displayed in them. Key features are textured wool and tweed in dusky pastel colours, vintage lace trims and soft, raw-edge detailing that creates an old world feel.
Cooper explores American Prairie Couture, inspired by the film Deadwood. We used silhouettes from the 19th century such as long, structured skirts, ruffled bodices, puff-sleeve jackets and tail coats, and executes them with a western twist in washed leather, corduroy, plaid and fur trimming. All of our prints are designed in house and are unique to our collections. The Trelise Cooper collection features moody prints with exotic birds, coloured snakeskin, moths and butterflies. The Cooper prints are in soft sepia tones, like old photographs or watercolour paintings.
Top winter style tip?
Mix and match fabrics like denim and leather, lace and corduroy.
I love fashion because ...
It's ever-changing and takes me travelling to exotic places.
Favourite stylish places?
I recently saw an article about Karma Kandara and it inspired me to go to Bali to explore it. It's very stylish and has become a favourite place of mine.
* Stockists ph (09) 379 5005
CAROLINE SILLS
Designer Richard Moore
The autumn/winter range evolved out of a desire to hybrid three very different styling directions: 1950s styling, the art of draping and tucking fabric, and the blending of knit and woven together in garments. Draped fabrication, and tucking details that offer flattering lines form the basis of the collection. We have a stunning mondo grass print on a super fine silk as an exclusive print, which relates perfectly to the natural drape lines of the tuck pleat details in the range. Key fabrications include pure cashmere, silk, super fine merino, and viscose crepe.
Favourite piece?
A merino knit dress, with enclosed tassel sides that drape beautifully off the shoulder, or a multi panelled square shouldered tuxedo jacket.
Top winter style tip?
Wear what you want, just always make sure it is done with class.
I love fashion because ...
It's the most dynamic source of new design.
* Stockists ph (09) 445 3356
CELINE RITA
Designer Celine Chapman
For winter I was inspired by a darker, creepier side of 1990s culture - fascination with witchcraft and the supernatural, combined with stylings of 90s supermodels. The key features of the collection are thigh-high splits, off-the-shoulder dresses, skivvys, high necks, cut-outs and lots of different textures in the fabrics - from sheer chiffons to the crushed velvet, laces, wools, linens and silk cottons.
Favourite piece?
At the moment it is the woolly jumper because it's so snug and easy to wear in so many ways. And the "Supermodel" dress which comes in the crushed velvet and eggshell linen - I love the fit and shape of it. I usually do more floaty, full skirts, but I love how it fits the body. It screams empowered 1990s supermodel to me.
I love fashion because ...
It's so much more than just clothes.
* Stockists ph (09) 336 1191
MAX
Buying manager Liz Mannell
The English countryside was a big inspiration for us this season - we kind of ran away with the idea of foxes. I call England home, so it was very second nature for me. We were also inspired by the glamour of the 70s - think faux fur stoles, sunray pleats, and there is even a turban. Coats are also key this season in an array of shapes and styles, with rich colours and intricate detailing.
I love fashion because ...
It is ever-changing, there is something fresh, new and exciting every season.
Favourite stylish places?
La Cigale french markets - just up the road from work and makes a great escape from the office for a quick bite to eat.
Anything else you would like to add?
Don't forget to accessorise, we have a great range of boots that are sure to complete every outfit.
* Stockists ph 0800 Maxshop
TAYLOR BOUTIQUE
Designer Vicki Taylor
For winter we were inspired by the feeling of being wrapped and enclosed. We wanted our textures to interplay against each other being bold and yet delicate. At Taylor each season we import exclusive fabrics for our collections and this time I have taken the geometrics from the pattern table into my fabrication.
Top winter style tip?
This season buy one stylish thing that will last because it suits you, your figure and your lifestyle. Make sure it challenges your normal look slightly without overpowering it and ensure the piece is not a slave to trend.
Favourite stylish places?
I'm loving being an Aucklander at the moment. Our city is really growing up. We have so many more stylish places. There is Imperial Lane, in its beautifully designed building with stylish eateries. Half an hour away we have Waiheke Island, where you can enjoy amazing dining experiences and exquisite food at Poderi Cresci or grab a coffee from the Island's best kept local secret, the Island Coffee Roastery.
* Shop online: taylorshop.co.nz, ph (09) 376 6544
CYBELE
Designer Cybele Wiren
For winter we were thinking about folk art, storybooks and mythology. I recently re-discovered a folksy vintage scarf in my wardrobe that inspired the key winter print. It's also got an Aubrey Beardsley feel. Key pieces in the range include distinctive outerwear, directional layering pieces in woolly wintery textures, our ongoing mix of garments oversized for ease that can be dressed up and down.
Favourite piece?
Our new woolly cardigan - it's cosy and it works with everything. It's what we like to call thrashable.
Top winter style tip?
Wearing colour (even a little bit) can really brighten a dull winter's day.
I love fashion because ...
Of the never-ending possibilities - fashion's constant reinvention never fails to inspire me.
Favourite stylish places?
My local cafe, the Salvation Kitchen in Avondale. Everything is made there on-site.
* ph (09) 376 5009
For winter we were thinking about introducing the colour of the autumn/winter season rather than focusing on black. These colours were the basis for our yarn and knit design for the season. Lots of leather is the key to our winter collection.
Every season we create our own knits using exclusive yarns and colours, setting us apart from other brands. This season was inspired by blending a mixing a range of new autumn/winter colours to create a substitute for black.
Favourite piece?
Our leather panel pant. They go with absolutely everything, tuck you in in all the right places, and suit every body shape, size and age.
Top winter style tip?
Invest in leather panelled with stretch. It creates comfort and size becomes less of a problem.
Favourite stylish places?
Coffee at La Boulange - the food is delicious, and if you are in the mood for some fresh Bluff oysters, Soul Bar.
* Stockists ph (09) 629 2965
ANDREA MOORE
Designer Andrea Moore
Dark sparkly glamour and jewel tones combine with a gothic edge to create an evocative sensual collection - I believe the jewel-like tones of winter can impart strength to personality and make women look unique. The base design for our key print for this season came from an old vintage dress from the Portobello markets and the colours I wanted were the dark jewel tones with some arresting pops of colour. Framing these drapey silk prints are the coats, severely tailored with beautiful proportion and gorgeous colours.
Favourite piece?
The cotton/cashmere knitwear - so snuggly with a cool texture.
Top winter style tip?
Have a great coat - it will hide anything - and don't wear black; too draining.
Favourite stylish places?
Art galleries, anywhere in the world they have the best architecture and the best play of colour ... and in Christchurch it withstands a lot of earthquakes.
* Stockists ph (09) 360 0473
PLAYTEX
Ambassador Penelope Benson
I'm really looking forward to coming to New Zealand and being a part of the NZ Fashion Festival representing Playtex. My favourite piece in the winter range is the Perfectly Smooth T-Shirt Bra. It's versatile and perfect for everyday - it's seriously comfortable and comes in great seasonal colours.
Top winter style tip?
Keep warm and layer. Nothing worse than being underdressed and cold.
I love fashion because ...
It excites me. It's my first love, my hobby, it's what I do.
Favourite stylish places?
Paris - it's a cliche but it is what it is, it's a beautiful city. Milan, for its contribution to fashion and style, and lastly the Amalfi Coast, I think we are spoilt here in Australia with our beaches and coastlines, and have been to nicer places but nothing can take away from the magic and style of this area - it's a mix of luxury and old school cool.
* Stockists ph 0800 450 103
INGRID STARNES
Designer Ingrid Starnes
The loose idea of the autumn/winter collection, called Arcadia, was of a garden so beautiful it couldn't really exist. I was also thinking of a hand-me-downs we had growing up - of furs and 40s dresses. The key features of the collection are the Arcadia print we had made in a range of silks, the red pleated "June" dress and the amazing intricate lace story. It's so important to have an exclusive print. Ours began with a treasured vintage scrap of fabric that I then changed, updated, coloured and got to this lovely floral.
Favourite piece?
It is very hard to choose one but if I had to probably the "Josie" dress. The fit is amazing - the lace is really special, you could get married in it.
Top winter style tip?
You don't mind it's cold if you have a beautiful coat.
I love fashion because ...
I love sewing and making clothes, and fabric and details and getting something out of the wardrobe that has a story and some real craft that went into it. That is what I think about when I think about fashion.
Favourite stylish places?
I love the vintage store Victorian Gilt and am very sad to think that it is closing this year. The array of one-off treasures from around the world and over the years is always inspiring.
Anything else you would like to add?
We are very excited to have launched our new online store, and we're loving sharing the Herne Bay store with Tessuti.
* Ph (09) 376 4802
* Herald Online Life & Style Editor Nicky Park will be blogging from the New Zealand Fashion Festival. Follow her on Twitter. We'll also have plenty of video coverage so stay tuned.
The New Zealand Herald and Viva are sponsors of NZ Fashion Festival 2012.
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