Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the TV chef who changed the way we eat, is taking on his biggest battle yet: to end our addiction to plastic. Bryan Appleyard meets him.

"I wouldn't last five minutes in my own kitchen," admits Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall over lunch in the private dining room at his River Cottage Kitchen restaurant in Bristol. "I'm just too messy — and probably not on it enough to run a service."

It's true: in 1989, he was sacked as a sous-chef at the uber-groovy River Cafe in Hammersmith for being too chaotic and slow. He hasn't really been a working chef

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