Lip gloss is having a moment, but should you be choosing petroleum-free?

The plethora of lip products on the market in 2024 is overwhelming, so taking ingredients into consideration may help to narrow your focus. Photo / Getty Images

Balmy, shiny products are enjoying renewed popularity. But with many relying on petroleum for gloss, can you get the look with a more natural alternative?

Search the hashtag #lipgloss on TikTok today and you’ll find more than 1.4 million videos dedicated to the quintessential handbag staple. We have the likes of Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid, with their penchant for early-noughties style, to thank for the return of the OG glossy lip and, with the recent relaunch of the iconic (and previously discontinued) Lancome Juicy Tubes, you can absolutely achieve that nostalgic Y2K look with the products from your youth, if that’s what your heart desires.

However, with customers becoming increasingly knowledgeable about the ingredients in beauty products, the petroleum-based formulas of many of your favourite teenage memories are finding competition in more natural alternatives. Shea butter, coconut oil and beeswax-based lip products are more accessible than ever and they can offer more long-term skincare benefits when it comes to efficacy, too.

Petroleum-based products are great for anyone living in a cold or dry climate as petroleum forms an instant protective barrier on the lips, preventing moisture loss and helping to retain hydration while you’re exposed to the elements.

Composed primarily of mineral oils and waxes, and obtained during the refining of crude oil, petroleum jelly has been widely used in lip products because it is highly stable, giving it a long shelf life. Along with its protective barrier properties, it offers a smooth application and soft feel.

While petroleum jelly is generally regarded as safe for external use, there are some concerns about potential contaminants, such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which can be present in poorly refined petroleum-based products. However, pharmaceutical-grade petroleum jelly undergoes rigorous purification processes to minimise impurities and ensure safety for use in cosmetic and skincare products.

With customer concerns about potential contaminants, a preference for renewable resources and minimal environmental impact, skin sensitivities and a desire for plant-derived ingredients in skincare, there is an increasing awareness about petrochemical-derived beauty products, despite their compliance with health and safety regulations.

One of the cosmetic issues with petroleum-based lip products is that, while they provide an instant barrier of protection, they may not offer enough long-term moisturisation, with a study published in the European Journal of Dermatology finding that long-term use could lead to a cycle of dependence on the product.

If hydration is the aim of the game, it might be time to ditch the petroleum, so always read the product packaging and avoid these ingredients: petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin, petroleum distillates, hydrogenated polyisobutene and cera microcristallina (microcrystalline wax).

If you need some help in the shopping department, here are some petroleum-free alternatives to get you started, all available for less than $25.

Kester Black Dawn to Dusk Lip Balm

Shea oil, sweet almond oil, watermelon extract and vitamin E help support barrier function and provide both instant and long-term nourishment for lips. It’s a 94.94 per cent natural formula that’s glossy, but not sticky.

$24 from Kester Black

Ashley & Co Tint Me Lip Punch

With a beeswax base and a soft pink colour derived from 100 per cent natural pink beet pigment, this balm-gloss hybrid is instantly hydrating while providing a little bit of tint to the lips which can be layered for a more intense colour pay-off.

$15 from Ashley & Co

Lanolips Glossy Balm in Candy

Lanolin is the hero ingredient in all Lanolips products, the molecular structure of which mimics the oils found in human skin. It also contains vitamin E and sweet almond oil in a super-glossy formula that’s incredibly hydrating for dry lips.

$17.50 from Mecca

Sans Ceuticals Lip Aid

Small enough to fit in any handbag or pocket, this velvety lip treatment is the antidote to parched lips, thanks to enzymes from papaya seed oil which gently exfoliate and stimulate cell renewal, and carrot seed oil to boost hydration and smooth skin.

$20 from Sans Ceuticals