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Home / Lifestyle

James Kenny: take time in the kitchen to ferment and preserve winter's bounty - lemons

By James Kenny
Canvas·
3 Sep, 2021 09:00 PM3 mins to read

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Chef James Kenny is head of the food offering at Alberts, Auckland's private tenants' club. Photo / Supplied

Chef James Kenny is head of the food offering at Alberts, Auckland's private tenants' club. Photo / Supplied

So you've got your baking groove on - but how about trying recipes that require fermentation and time - which is a bit like lemons right now - we have an abundance of it.

Chef James Kenny is a lover of fermentation and preservation, among other Scandinavian culinary techniques, and last year travelled to Denmark to learn more. He is head chef at Alberts, Auckland's private tenants' club, and is due to open his with his new restaurant, Palmer, by the end of the year.

Preserved Lemons

A great way of utilising the last of winter's bounty, preserve organic lemons when they are at their best for later months. Traditionally a great addition to tagines but also perfect as a flavour kick for chicken casseroles, dressings and an accompaniment for grilled meats.

 James Kenny with his partner's toddler on their farm picking lemons to preserve. Photo / Supplied
James Kenny with his partner's toddler on their farm picking lemons to preserve. Photo / Supplied
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Ingredients

20 organic lemons, rinsed under cold water

20 Tbsp table salt

1 tsp coriander seeds

1 tsp star anise

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2 cinnamon quills

Method
1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil, blanch lemons for 30 seconds to kill off any bacteria, then plunge them immediately into ice water.

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2. Dry off, then make a criss-cross incision with a sharp knife going ¾ of the way through the lemon.

Preserved lemons. Photo / Getty Images
Preserved lemons. Photo / Getty Images

3. Wearing gloves, rub each lemon liberally with salt, then place in sterilised jars with spices. Muddle slightly with the end of a wooden spoon to release juices.

4. Leave for six weeks to ferment. When ready, slice the skin and use accordingly. Discard flesh.

Cacio e Pepe Compound Butter

Cacio e pepe seems to be on every Auckland restaurant menu worth its salt at the moment - and for good reason. This combination of pecorino cheese, pepper and butter isn't limited to only pasta. It's an amazing way to beef up your roast potatoes or a rich and full sauce for steak.

Ingredients
1 tsp black peppercorns
½ tsp flaky salt
75g grated pecorino or parmesan
200g softened butter

Method
1. Coarsely grind peppercorns using a pestle and mortar.
2. Stir the pepper along with salt and grated pecorino into the softened butter until evenly
combined.

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3. Wipe a work surface with a damp cloth and place a smooth sheet of cling film on top of it. Smooth out any creases and place another sheet of cling film on top.

4. Spoon the butter on to the centre of the cling film and form into a neat log. Tightly wrap and secure with a knot at each end.

5. Refrigerate until firm. Cut off portions as required.

Chef James Kenny's passion is relaxed food, fermentation and preserving. Photo / Supplied
Chef James Kenny's passion is relaxed food, fermentation and preserving. Photo / Supplied

Sriracha Sauce

This condiment is a staple in our house and can literally be used on anything to give it a sweet, tangy and spicy kick. Great on scrambled eggs in the morning or slathered into a sandwich, this homemade recipe will out-do any shop-bought alternative.

Ingredients
600g red chillies, stalks removed (frozen are fine)
10 garlic cloves, peeled
4 tsp salt
75g brown sugar
75g caster sugar
4 tsp rice vinegar
2 Tbsp fish sauce
100ml water

Method
1. Combine chillies, garlic, salt and sugar in a blender to a rough puree.

2. Pour into a sterilised jar or bowl and cover. Leave to ferment for three days, "burping" it each day to release air.

3. Place all ingredients into a small pot and bring to a boil. Allow mixture to cool slightly then puree again in a blender to a smooth consistency. Pour again into sterilised jars. It should keep for up to three months in the fridge.

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