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Home / Lifestyle

<i>Herne Bay Local</i>, Herne Bay

By Nici Wickes
NZ Herald·
28 Oct, 2010 11:00 PM4 mins to read

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Address: 170 Jervois Road
Phone: 09 376 5367
Website: hernebaylocal.co.nz
Cuisine: Casual a la carte dining, platters and tapas
Rating: 7.5/10

I'm a frequent visitor and fan of Herne Bay, with its numerous cafes and restaurants, but I'm in no way a "local", so when I arranged with a friend to dine at an eatery called the Herne Bay Local I was nervous it would be obvious I was an intruder.

As soon as I phoned to make a reservation the "local" part kicked in and I was asked "where would you like to sit?" I mumbled something about "in the main area, not outside and not down the back please" and it seemed to work.

When we arrived I was happy we'd made the booking as even on this early-in-the-week night the place was brimming with local folk. The atmosphere was more than just convivial, there was a party-like feel to the place, with jugs of beer being passed over the bar.

But we were here to eat, not drink, so was the food any good or was this "local" more a bar than an eatery?

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The a la carte dinner menu is small but the selection is interesting and there's an additional menu of platters and skewers we made use of in putting together our meals.

First up was the soup of the day - a steaming bowl of Asian-inspired chicken broth, delicately spiced with star anise and sesame oil and deriving its heat as much from the fresh ginger and pepper as chilli. No one flavour dominated and it was delicious but my friend kept slapping my hand away. You see, the soup was hers, not mine.

I'd gone for half a dozen tempura Clevedon oysters - crispy, juicy, rich and dipped in a tangy rice wine vinaigrette - and an order of the chiu chow chilli prawns. Chiu chow cuisine is among the best in Hong Kong and this plate of fried prawns took me straight back there.

Chef Heath Wildy seems to know his way around an Asian spice market and the balance of heat, sweet, sourness and saltiness was a taste explosion. Shaved radish salad made a cooling side dish.

Mains from the dinner menu at HBL can be ordered as small or large and we opted for small servings of the beef sirloin and barbecued chicken breast.

My Wakanui Blue sirloin had been slow roasted for four hours, yet was served pink, on a smear of butternut squash puree (divinely sweet) and accompanied by sautéed wild mushrooms that lent an earthiness to the dish. The beef bordered on being chewy but was tasty and I forgave it. It was an uncomplicated, bistro-style dish and, this is what neighbourhood dining is all about.

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The chicken breast was cooked well - by which I mean it wasn't overcooked. Our fears have led us to overcooking chicken more often than not and it's a shame as even the breast meat can be moist and juicy when cooked correctly. Combined with a crunchy, panko crumbed chicken leg and served on mashed potato with celeriac slaw, my dining friend proclaimed it "divinely comforting".

Desserts sounded too tempting to pass up and when they arrived I couldn't stop staring. The plates were bursting with colour and texture, petals and sparkles and I adored them. They were like a kid's party spread. Tasting them was another story - they were definitely designed for adults.

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The chocolate fondant was sweet and bitter with its molten chocolate centre. It came served with an ice cream ball crumbed in chocolate cookies and deep fried, which, unbelievably, wasn't greasy. The lemon meringue pie was tart, silky smooth and the crust short and buttery. The only letdown was the meringue topping was seriously under-cooked.

The Herne Bay Local lives up to what it is says it is - a cosy little bar and eatery where you can settle in and be pleasantly surprised by sensational food and friendly staff who'll make you feel like a regular. The real locals have already discovered this, so be sure to make a booking.

From the menu: Chicken Broth $12, Chili prawns $12, Clevedon Oysters half doz $22, Wakanui Blue Beef Sirloin (sm) $22, BBQ'd Chicken Breast & Japanese Schnitzel Leg $20, Rocket & parmesan salad $6, Hot chocolate fondant $12, Lemon Meringue Pie $12.

Drinks: Fully licensed.

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