Stylists usually begin working with clients by taking everything out of their closets and going through each item. “Then we can both see what you’re actually wearing and what’s just taking up space,” says DC personal stylist Lani Inlander. “I had one male client, a partner at a law firm, who I helped get rid of 75 worn or outgrown white dress shirts! Getting dressed is a very different experience for him now.”
You can also edit your existing wardrobe yourself, perhaps enlisting a stylish friend for opinions. Think about which colours, shapes or styles you wear the most. “Be your own influencer,” Vollmerhausen says. “What I mean by that is – make your own outfits, take your own selfies, and then you can remember and analyse about which outfits feel the best.” This also helps determine what gaps there are in your wardrobe; eg not enough work pants or weekend going-out tops.
Begin with the basics
And that means whatever is “basic” to you. “Not starting with the boring stuff is always a mistake, but that doesn’t always mean you need a closet full of black pants and white button-downs,” Vollmerhausen says. Because she works from home but meets frequently with clients, Vollmerhausen considers dark jeans and black, menswear-inspired blazers her basics. But she helps male clients who need several suits and multiple dress shirts and female clients who mostly wear dresses.
“You want to build a stable of a few dozen foundational pieces that you love, which are also functional and versatile,” says Irene Kim, a Toronto wardrobe stylist and author of the fashion Substack In Moda Veritas. Kim herself counts a pair Tibi of sweatpants with tight cuffs and barrel legs as one of her surprising MVPs. “I love the interesting shape through the leg, the perfect amount of slouch, and they make sense for my lifestyle,” she says. Kim slips into them for both casual and dressier occasions, “to the point that I don’t need the other two sweatpants I own”.
Buy fewer, better things
“If you want things that will last in your wardrobe, think about their cost per wear,” Inlander says. “You may want to spend more on the pieces you’ll use the most.” That means seeking well-made clothing (nicely finished seams, mostly natural fabrics) and quality leather shoes, which can last for years if you have them resoled and polished. “Don’t buy something that’s cheaper instead of what you really want,” Ohlendorf says. “It never satisfies, and you’ll end up replacing it. Go for things like men’s shoes with Goodyear welting or suits with full canvasing.”
For longevity, keep super trendy purchases to a minimum. “You don’t want a bunch of things that scream, ‘Oh that was last summer,’” says Meghan Kinney, the Brooklyn designer behind sustainable women’s clothing brand Meg. “I try to create clothes with clean lines and design elements, so they’re kind of subtle and last longer.”
Dress outside of trends
If you figure out colours (pumpkin orange) and silhouettes (A-line skirts, tailored blazers) that work with your body and colouring, you don’t need to constantly change things up. Think of fashion icons such as Coco Chanel or Iris Apfel. Both dressed in “uniforms” of sorts – Chanel in tweedy jackets and loads of black and white, Apfel in a rainbow of prints and bright bangles.
Ask for professional help
A session or two with a professional stylist might help you zero in on your needs and style. You can either hire an independent stylist or reserve time with an in-house pro shopper at a department store, boutique or retailer. Appointments with store stylists are generally free, and while the ultimate goal is pushing you to make purchases, it’s usually not a hard sell.
“Brands and stores that have skilled and knowledgeable sales associates can help steer you in the right direction,” Ohlendorf says. “Places like Sid Mashburn for men or smaller boutiques for women have staffers who can guide you on fit or offer alterations so you’re truly happy with a garment.”
Take care of what you have
If you spend more money on a higher-quality wardrobe, it makes financial sense to care for it. Find a good cobbler who can repair your shoes, a tailor who can do small fixes and mending and a dry cleaner you trust. “Get your clothes in the best shape possible,” Kinney says. “Keep them clean and pressed, and replace those lost buttons.”
For garments that can be laundered, don’t overdo it, Kim says. “Wash things on cold and air dry them to preserve the fabric and extend the garment’s life.”
Don’t completely stop shopping
While having fewer, finer items might be the best strategy for a wardrobe with staying power, “it’s human nature to want things that are new and different,” Kim says. As dress silhouettes and tie widths change, you can purchase one or two new items a year or season.
“When there’s a shift, say, from slim to wide pants, people say, ‘I’m going a throw out all my skinny jeans and get a whole new wardrobe,’” Vollmerhausen says. “Instead, start slow, like one pair of wide jeans you wear over and over again. Something can be current, but it doesn’t mean it’s you and what you feel comfortable in.”
Kinney counsels keeping a small “treasure chest” of pieces that, for whatever reason, you can’t part with. “I have a few things tucked away, like an old leather bomber jacket I’ve had for decades,” she says. “They might not feel right this year, but if you revisit them down the road, you may wear them again.”
Writer Jennifer Barger is an editor at Consumers’ Checkbook. Her newsletter, The Souvenirist, explores the intersection of design, shopping and travel.
