Sun exposure is the number-one cause of skin cancer, including melanoma. Can adding sunscreen to your skincare routine prevent this? Photo / Getty Images
Sun exposure is the number-one cause of skin cancer, including melanoma. Can adding sunscreen to your skincare routine prevent this? Photo / Getty Images
Sun exposure is the number-one cause of skin cancer – including the most deadly form, melanoma. High levels of sun exposure cause an estimated 7,200 melanomas in Australia each year. New Zealand also has the highest melanoma skin cancer rate in the world, according to the Cancer Society.
Too much sun exposure can also lead to premature ageing, resulting in wrinkles, fine lines and age spots.
Can a tweak to your skincare routine help prevent this?
When should I start wearing sunscreen?
In Australia, we are advised to wear sunscreen on days when the ultraviolet (UV) index reaches three or higher. That’s year-round for much of Australia. The weather forecast or the Cancer Council’s free SunSmart app are easy ways to check the UV index.
A sun protection factor (SPF) is also found in many beauty products, such as foundations, powders and moisturisers. Photo / Getty Images
Besides “primary sunscreens”, which are dedicated sun-protection products, a sun protection factor (SPF) is also found in many beauty products, such as foundations, powders and moisturisers. These are called “secondary sunscreens” because they have a primary purpose other than sun protection.
Primary sunscreens are regulated by the Therapeutic Goods Administration and the SPF must be determined by testing on human skin. SPF measures how quickly skin burns with and without sunscreen under intense UV light. If the skin takes 10 seconds to burn with no sunscreen, and 300 seconds to burn with the sunscreen, the SPF is 30 (300 divided by 10).
How long does it take for skin to repair after sun exposure? We discussed the lingering effectsof UVB exposure here: https://t.co/RXrQXuIkje via @ConversationEDU
Also, when people use a moisturiser or makeup that includes SPF, they generally don’t do the three key steps that make sunscreens effective:
Putting a thick enough amount on;
Covering all sun-exposed areas;
Reapplying regularly when outdoors for a sustained amount of time.
One study had 39 participants apply their usual SPF makeup/moisturisers and photographed them with UV photography in the morning, then again in the afternoon, without reapplying during the day. The UV photography allowed the researchers to visualise how much protection these products were still providing.
They found participants missed some facial areas with the initial application and the SPF products provided less coverage by the afternoon.
Another consideration is the product type. Liquid foundation may be applied more thickly than powder makeup, which is generally lightly applied.
Liquid foundation may be applied more thickly than powder makeup. Photo / Getty Images
The Therapeutic Goods Administration tests primary sunscreens so they’re effective when applied at two milligrams per two square centimetres of skin.
For the face, ears and neck, this is about one teaspoon (five millilitres) – are you applying that much powder?
It’s unlikely people will cake on their moisturiser thickly and reapply during the day, so these products aren’t effective sun protection if outdoors for a sustained amount of time when used alone.
If skin products with SPF aren’t giving me better protection, should I stop using them?
These products can still serve a protective purpose, as some research suggests layering sunscreen and makeup products may help to cover areas that were missed during a single application.
When layering, SPF factors are not additive. If you’re wearing an SPF 30 sunscreen and makeup with SPF 15, that doesn’t equal SPF 45. You will be getting protection from the highest product (in this scenario, it’s the SPF 30).
A good metaphor is SPF in makeup is like “icing on the cake”. Use it as an add-on, and if areas were missed with the initial sunscreen application, then there is another chance to cover all areas with the SPF makeup.
It depends on whether you’re using a chemical or physical sunscreen. Chemical sunscreens need to absorb into the skin to block and absorb the sun’s rays, whereas physical sunscreens sit on the surface of the skin and act as a shield.
When the main ingredient is zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, it’s a physical sunscreen – think the classic zinc sticks you used to apply to your nose and lips at the beach. Physical sunscreens are recommended for people with sensitive skin, and although they used to be pretty thick and sticky, newer versions feel more like chemical sunscreens.
Chemical sunscreens need to absorb into the skin, while physical sunscreens sit on the surface. Photo / Olga Yastremska
For maximum sun protection when using chemical sunscreens, apply sunscreen first, followed by moisturiser, then makeup. Give the sunscreen a few minutes to dry and sink into the skin before starting to put on other products. Chemical sunscreen should be applied 20 minutes before going outdoors.
When using a physical sunscreen, first apply moisturisers, followed by sunscreen, and then makeup.
When reapplying sunscreen, it’s recommended to wash off makeup and start fresh, but this isn’t going to be practical for many people, so gently patting sunscreen over makeup is another option. Physical sunscreens will be most effective for reapplication over makeup.
What type of sunscreen should I use?
The best sunscreen is the one you actually like to apply. Protecting your skin on a daily basis (and not just for trips to the beach!) is a must in Australia and New Zealand’s high UV climates, and should be done with a primary sunscreen.
Look for sunscreens that have the label “broad spectrum”, which means they cover for UVA and UVB, and have at least SPF30.
Then experiment with features like matte finish, milk texture or fragrance-free to find a sunscreen you like.
It's recommended to use hats, sunglasses and protective clothing during peak UV hours because no sunscreen provides 100% protection. Photo / 123RF
No sunscreen provides 100 per cent protection, so you should also use other sun protection such as protective clothing, hats, sunglasses, using shade and avoiding the sun during peak UV hours.
Skincare and makeup products with SPF are better than nothing, but don’t rely solely on your morning makeup for sun protection the entire day.
