Goldwater celebrates 20 years of fine wine

Waiheke Island marked a proud moment in winemaking history last week when the island's oldest vineyard, Goldwater Estate, released its 20th vintage.

The owners, Kim and Jeanette Goldwater and their daughter Gretchen, celebrated the occasion by hosting a lavish five-course dinner - complete with plenty of Goldwater wine, of course - for friends, family and wine industry connoisseurs.

Buses shuttled the well groomed guests from the ferry landing at Matiatia to the spectacular 35 acre property on Waiheke's west coast.

The first course of the degustation dinner - oysters and popcorn squid with a crisp 2004 "New Dog" Sauvignon Blanc - was served on a hillside overlooking the blue-green waters of Putiki Bay.

A violinist played under a giant pohutukawa, the tree that adorns the estate's bottle labels.

A short time later, "Bacchanti", goddess of wine, appeared resplendent in white toga.

She spoke of the emptiness of a life without wine - and the fulfilment of one with - before ushering the crowd into the airy white tasting room for Part 2 of the "liquid journey".

Exquisite combinations of crayfish and "Zell" Chardonnay, eye fillet and Goldwater's newly named signature "Goldie" Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Franc followed.

Dessert saw the chefs, from O'Connell Street Bistro, teaming pecorino cheese, figs and melt-in-your-mouth St Emilion au Chocolat with other sumptuous reds.

But life was not always so sweet, Kim Goldwater recalled, as he took to the floor to tell the story of planting a vineyard where no vineyard had been planted before.

There was the clay, the countless long, slow boat rides from Auckland and, worst of all, the sceptics who said a vineyard so close to the sea would never work.

But the Goldwaters were determined, starting out small with two acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1978.

"All we really wanted to do was make a bit of red wine for ourselves and our friends," Kim said.

They transported the vines in the family yacht, known as "Noah's Ark".

The first vintage was bottled in 1982 and released in 1985.

Accolades and international awards followed, and before long Goldwater had a burgeoning export business on its hands.

Its wines are now sold in more than 20 countries, including Britain, Hong Kong, India and the United States.

Production has grown to more than 200,000 litres a year. The grapes are supplied by 120 acres in Marlborough and 20 acres in Hawkes Bay as well as the Waiheke property.

Kim said it was hard to believe he and Jeanette's "little mom-and-pop operation" had come so far.

They can also take credit for other winemakers trying Waiheke, which an associate of the family joked was once better known for its "green crops" than its grapes.

Now more than 30 vineyards flourish on the island.