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Home / Lifestyle

Going local

Amanda Laird
By Amanda Laird
Food writer·NZ Herald·
19 Jan, 2010 03:00 PM6 mins to read

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Monica Holmes' jam, pickles, jellies and pastes are a favourite with Clevedon Farmers' Market regulars. Photo / Babiche Martens

Monica Holmes' jam, pickles, jellies and pastes are a favourite with Clevedon Farmers' Market regulars. Photo / Babiche Martens

Wherever you are - town, beach or country, you don't have to trek far these days to find a genuine farmers' market manned by enthusiastic growers and creative types bursting to share their wares.

There are around 50 official farmers' markets in New Zealand, all certified members of Farmers'
Market New Zealand Inc - an organisation which ensures a market's authenticity.

According to its official website this means "At least 80 per cent of the stall holders should be certified, which means they are the grower/producer, the producer is the seller, and the food is produced locally.

The principle purpose for farmers' markets is to support the sustainability and viability of farming in the local region. Put simply, no farms, no food". The organisation is currently implementing an "Authentic Farmers' Market" logo which over the next year will be displayed at most markets and stalls.

The Clevedon Market, just a 40-minute drive south of Auckland city, is one of the best examples of a successful - and authentic - farmers' market.

It has been operating since 2005 and is very much Helen Dorresteyn's baby, although she is the first to admit that it is such a success because of the local community's support. And what community wouldn't want to support such a fabulous enterprise?

The market encourages sustainable farming practices, reduction of food miles and the use of biodegradable packaging. It is simple market shopping as it should be, in a picturesque rural setting. No rushing allowed, this is unquestionably a place in which to spend some time, soak in the atmosphere and take a while to peruse the produce.

The key is to get there as early as you can, be sure to take plenty of cash, a basket and an empty stomach. That way you can dive right in with a coffee and an almond croissant.

The beauty of any market is the seasonality of the offerings. Produce changes monthly or even weekly according to what the growers choose to provide or what is in peak condition to be picked the morning of the market.

At Clevedon you might find scallopini flowers and green tomatoes one week and white eggplants, long purple spindly radishes and magnificent glossy red peppers the next. There are stands dedicated solely to bundles of the finest asparagus, perfect heritage tomatoes and mounds of tangelos producing the sweetest tart juice.

There are freshly dug potatoes, bunches of fragrant basil, baby carrots, kale and cavolo nero. At other stalls you'll find delicate raspberries, organic blueberries and buckets full of salad greens and herbs.

As you meander around the stalls you can't help but be stimulated by the colours, smells and the growers' enthusiastic banter about their produce. Most are keen to share tips about how to prepare the produce and will often suggest recipe ideas. Some stalls sell seeds so you can grow your own non-hybrid varieties at home. All in all, Clevedon Market is an absolute food lovers' paradise but really, this is only scratching the surface.

Along with the fresh produce there prepared food to tempt you and get the salivary glands working overtime.

The Hungarian twisters - kurtos kalacs - are a hit with the kiddies and those with a sweet tooth: warm pastry, baked then rolled in cinnamon and sugar or chocolate; or hundreds and thousands if that takes your fancy, rather good and fun to eat as they unravel. Crepes are covered with lemon juice and sugar, while huge pans of paella bubble away crammed with chicken, chorizo and prawns in front of attentive spectators.

At the Oh Fudge stall you'll find divine creamy handmade fudge in a range of flavours - try the passionfruit or sticky ginger and fig- while the women from Clevedon Village Juice will whiz up a healthy smoothie or fresh juice concoction such as carrot, beetroot, ginger and orange.

If savoury food is more your thing I suggest trying one of my favourites, the Kernow Cornish pasties, which are made using a traditional Cornish family recipe. The soft, flaky pastries are crammed full of vegetables and peppery tender meat and are absolutely delectable.

Or there is always the "I Love Pies" smoked fish and bechamel or angus steak and caramelised onion - all made with sour cream pastry ... Lordy, it must be time to grab a glass of sangria from Waiuku River Wines, collapse under the shade of a nearby tree and watch the ponies and donkeys amble through the paddocks balancing precarious wee ones.

Don't be seduced by this bucolic haze for too long.

Brush the hay from your back because there is still much more to be discovered. Like chatting to Barry from River Estate Olive Oil.

Five generations of this family - which started out producing butter - now produce award-winning olive oils including the winner of the "best in class" 2009 award at the Olives NZ Awards; their olives are proudly picked and processed on the same day.

Meanwhile, at Ness Valley Nuts an extremely articulate and well-informed young lad's enthusiasm is infectious. Did you know macadamias contain no cholesterol and are high in antioxidants? Well now you do.

Grab yourself a bag of fresh or dry roasted and munch while deciding whether to buy hot-smoked and cured salmon from Salmonman, wet fish or eel from Piako Pete, organic beef from Zakar Organics, or free-range (and soon to be organic) chicken from Kipdale Farms - a farmer dedicated to "producing the best tasting bird in New Zealand".

Go to Miss Figgy for fresh figs, when in season, and fig preserves, to Wild Bee Apiaries for natural bush and field honey, Pasta la Vista for fresh take-home pasta and Clevedon Cuisine for scrumptious muesli, pestos, mayo, dressings and jams. Did I mention cheese? Aahhh, the cheeses here are wonderful.

Not only can you buy the buffalo milk ricotta, yoghurt, mozzarella and blue that often appear in my recipes but Mercer cheese sells goat, maasdam and gouda, sliced in any quantity you fancy and wrapped in wax paper.

Mountains of gleaming green limes can be found at Miranda on the Firth, which has cooking demonstrations as well, and a New Year welcome to Peach Tree Farm, sellers of RNZSPCA free-range accredited pork, parma ham, rillettes and saucisson. I could wax lyrical for pages.

I haven't even begun on the beautiful lavender soaps and lotions from Willow Brook or the quite remarkable kawakawa based anti-itch gel, healing balm and rescue essence - the Kiwi alternative to Rescue Remedy - from Earth Energies.

The best idea is to go and discover for yourself. The market is open every Sunday from 8.30 until 12 on Monument Rd, Clevedon. See clevedonfarmersmarket.co.nz.

To find your local Farmers' Market check out farmersmarket.org.nz.

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