Molten co-owner Sven Nielsen offers feasting menus and shared food.
Mt Eden eatery Molten is reviving the feast, part of a menu transformation that moves away from fine dining to affordable neighbourhood bistro food.
Molten co-owner Sven Nielsen has developed a generous charcoal-fired pit for spit-roasting and barbecues in the cosy rear courtyard. Feasting menus with lashings of shared food "deliver a more rounded social experience to dining out," Nielsen says.
"You'll remember the dining table of years gone by where robust meals brought a family style form of interaction," he says. "The food is in place in the middle of the table and plates are passed between diners. People serve themselves.
"That's what it's like when you feast. And with this sharing of food, conversation is promoted and there's a more social element to the table. "We think it's a pleasant way to dine. Sometimes you also learn a few things."
The recipes featured here, by Molten head chef Rensha Bouwer, are available on a la carte and feasting menus.
Serves 4
For the watercress gnocchi
250g watercress
500g fresh hot mashed potato
130g plain flour
4 egg yolks
Freshly grated nutmeg
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
For the mussels
1 cup white wine
5 cloves garlic, smashed
Peel of one lemon
16 live green-lipped mussels, cleaned
and de-bearded
2 corn cobs, skin on
100ml rice bran or grapeseed oil
for cooking
1kg fresh trevally fillets
200g smoked butter (available from gourmet food retailers)
Fresh watercress to garnish
1. For the gnocchi, blanch the watercress and refresh it under cold water. Drain and squeeze out excess water, then chop as finely as possible and set aside.
2. Place all of the ingredients in a bowl and combine very lightly by hand - be careful not to overwork the mixture.
3. Roll the dough out on the bench into a thin sausage shape, and cut with a pastry cutter or sharp edge into bite-size portions. Blanch in salted boiling water. The gnocchi will drop to the bottom of the pot then rise to the surface. Give them a minute at the surface, then they are ready to be removed.
4. Refresh the gnocchi in iced water, drain, toss in some olive oil and set aside.
5. To steam the mussels, combine the wine, garlic and lemon in a pot and bring to the boil. Add the mussels, cover and leave to steam. When the mussels have all opened, remove from the heat; discard any which have not opened.
6. To prepare the corn, heat a grill to high. Cook the corn in their skins until they turn black. Allow to cool then dehusk and slice the kernels off the cob. Set aside.
7. Set oven to 150C. Heat a pan, add 2 tbsp oil, lightly saute the gnocchi, turning to colour on all sides, then place in the oven.
Heat a pan with the smoked butter and gently reheat the corn kernels.
8. Season trevally on both sides with sea salt and add to the hot pan with oil. Sear on one side until golden, reduce heat to low.
Turn over in pan briefly and add freshly squeezed lemon juice.
9. To serve, place a bed of gnocchi on the plate and top with the trevally. Place mussels around, then scatter with the corn and pour remaining melted smoked butter over to give the fish a glossy finish. Scatter with fresh watercress.
Serves 4
For the beef cheeks
1 litre red wine
2 whole garlic bulbs
2 bay leaves
8 star anise
1 sprig fresh rosemary
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tsp black peppercorns
4 beef cheeks, cleaned and trimmed (ask your butcher to do this)
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 leek, roughly chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
1 litre chicken stock
For the Dijonnaise Remoulade
4 egg yolks
4 tbsp dijon mustard
150ml white wine vinegar
500ml canola oil
1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced
1 lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced
For the mushrooms
1 tbsp rice bran oil
100g butter
1 punnet small portobellini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
200ml braising liquid, reserved from cooking the beef cheeks
1. For the beef cheeks, combine the red wine, garlic, bay leaves, star anise, rosemary, thyme and peppercorns in a large pot. Place on a high heat and bring to the boil then leave to simmer very gently for 10-15 minutes to cook off the alcohol and infuse the aromas. Don't let it reduce too much.
2. Remove from the heat and leave to cool to room temperature then add the beef cheeks and leave in the fridge to marinate for 24 hours. Then, remove the beef cheeks from the marinade and set aside. Reserve the marinade.
3. Set the oven to 140C. In a casserole pot, saute the onion, leek and carrot together until fragrant and softened. Add the reserved marinating liquid and bring to a simmer. Allow the liquid to reduce by half then add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Season to taste with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
4. Add the beef cheeks to the braising liquid, cover and cook in the oven for 7-8 hours until the beef cheeks are soft. Remove from oven. Keep the cheeks in the braising liquid until ready to serve.
5. For the dijonnaise remoulade, first prepare the sauce. Place the egg yolks, dijon mustard and vinegar in a food processor and mix on a slow speed until thoroughly incorporated. With the motor running, add all of the oil in a slow stream until combined. Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste.
6. Combine one cup of the dijonnaise sauce with the prepared fennel and cucumber. Set aside.
7. For the mushrooms, heat a pan on high with the oil and butter. Add the mushrooms and lightly saute. Add the braising liquid and cook until the stock and butter have emulsified and the mushrooms look glossy. Season to taste with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
8. To assemble, place the beef cheeks in a large serving dish and scatter the mushrooms over the top. Pour over the reserved cooking liquid from the beef cheeks. Place the remoulade on the side or serve in a small dish. You can also serve this on individual plates.
Lunch with Kasey and Karena at Molten
You have the chance to enjoy a sumptuous lunch with Kasey and Karena Bird to celebrate the launch of their new book, For the Love Of. . . One lucky winner and three friends can win a feasting lunch with the Birds at Molten restaurant in Auckland's Mt Eden. Turn to page 14 to see part of the menu. The date of prize redemption is by arrangement and does not include transport to Auckland, transfers or accommodation.
To enter, visit winwithheraldonsunday.co.nz and enter the key word 'Feast' along with your contact details. Entries close 5pm on Wednesday, April 15.
• Molten Restaurant and Bar, 422 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden,