My first impression was …Wow, this is gorgeous and very international. It's a light and airy space decorated in luxurious creams and blues, with stunning modern chandeliers and floor-to-ceiling windows on one side. A feature is the long marble kitchen bench showcasing an impressive open cooking fire; the restaurant is dedicated to celebrating the art of cooking over fire - hence the name.
I started with …Spent grain bread and native thyme butter. Normally I don't bother with bread at the start of a multi-course meal. But I couldn't keep away from this. Made from leftover brewery grains, its nutty texture and the fragrant, tangy butter were a homely, confident and delicious start.
The highlight was … Chef Gerrard, who, incidentally, has spent a chunk of his life cooking in New Zealand. He is focused on celebrating indigenous ingredients from all over Western Australia.
So in this meal, I discovered ingredients I had never heard of or eaten before. One was pearl meat, from Quandong Point, served with two other ingredients that were new to me: shaved boab tuber (a radish-like, sweetish tuber, served raw) and Geraldton wax, a flowering shrub.
The pearl meat, which is the adductor muscle of the pearl-producing oyster, is a little like sweet, raw scallop, but chewier (in a good way). Surrounded by a fragrant coconut-rich broth, this was fresh, earthy and totally innovative.
I also loved the map on the back of the menu showing the provenance of local ingredients. And I loved the small details that make this place a class act: the small metal holder our server set up beside the table to hang handbags on and keep them off the floor; the superb stylish design of the staff uniforms; the piles of beautiful local produce displayed on the kitchen counter.
Dessert was … Dellendale camembert icecream with sandalwood nuts and hearth-grilled strawberries. If that sounds weird, just trust me and try it, especially if you're a person who loves a light, less-sweet dessert. Or you could go for a Eucalyptus flan with finger lime; or grilled gooseberries with sheep's yoghurt. My advice: save room.
Come here if … You're after a uniquely Australian, very special experience and you're interested in exploring truly local and indigenous Australian ingredients. Open your mind and engage your curiosity, and you won't be disappointed.
The bill … I was hosted by the hotel. Expect to spend about $100 a person plus drinks for three courses and bread.
