- Kensington Palace’s Dress Codes exhibition highlights Diana, Princess of Wales, as its main attraction.
- Edward White’s book Dianaworld: An Obsession explores Diana’s lasting cultural impact and populist influence.
- Diana‘s legacy includes a more open monarchy and a lasting strain of populism in Britain.
Does Diana, Princess of Wales, still matter? So much else has happened since her shocking car-crash death in Paris in 1997 – 9/11, the Iraq War, Barack Obama, Brexit, the first Trump presidency, the pandemic, the start of Trump’s second term.
Consider this: Kensington Palace in London has an exhibition called Dress Codes featuring gowns worn by some rather significant women, including groundbreaking designer Dame Vivienne Westwood, Princess Margaret, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth II. Not a bad lineup. But out in the hallway, by the entrance, bigger than life and positioned to bring in the crowds, is a glamorous photograph of a single figure, the exhibition’s main lure: Diana, Princess of Wales.
As biographer Edward White ably demonstrates in Dianaworld: An Obsession, the once-bashful beauty who married her frog of a prince defies death’s diminution constantly. While he presents few new facts about Diana‘s life – inevitably, given how exhaustively she was covered both before and after death – White takes advantage of a quarter-century’s distance to present the cultural postmortem she deserves. His astute evaluation of what the princess was and continues to be, to the people who knew her and the millions who didn’t, makes a convincing case that her populist presence in the 1990s presaged the politics of the 21st century.
Lady Diana Spencer first walked on to the world stage in 1981 as an anachronism, a throwback, a teenager who’d attended finishing school not high school, a blue blood in the age of punk, a young bride at a time when young women having sex and postponing marriage was the norm. But she rapidly became a change agent, a breath of fresh air among the fusty royals. Not for her the formal walkabouts; Diana plunged into crowds to meet fans up close – to chat, to share confidences and, most significantly, to touch and hug. She made big news shaking hands with an Aids patient. As years passed, she intimated she possessed the healing touch, the same that royals in ancient times were said to have. Modern princess, mythological powers – such was the contradictory nature of Diana, an aristocrat who began to fancy herself the people’s champion. White aptly calls the princess a “cut-and-shut” figure, referencing the way two damaged cars can be welded into a single, imperfect vehicle.