The Black on Black range. Photo / Amy Robinson, Robinson Studios NZ
The Black on Black range. Photo / Amy Robinson, Robinson Studios NZ
Three leading wāhine Māori fashion designers have come together to release a stunning “black on black” resortwear range.
The collaboration is between Tania Rupapera (Ngāti Kahu, Ngāruahine) founder of leading contemporary Māori design gallery Unity Collection in Matakana, renowned Auckland fashion designer Turet Knuefermann and Dunedin-based artist Jessica Hinerangi (Ngāruahine,Ngāti Ruanui and Ngāpuhi) aka Māori Mermaid.
The black basics feature a signature Māori Mermaid artwork printed onto a handpicked selection of Knuefermann’s most-loved silhouettes – a kimono, sleeveless maxi dress, mini dress, shirt and off-the-shoulder top. All pieces have been designed with comfort and elegance in mind.
Rupapera, the visionary behind the collection, has worked in fashion retail for more than a decade and since opening Unity Collection, an authentic Māori contemporary art gallery two years ago in Matakana, she realised something was missing: a concise range of versatile garments that spoke to her inner wahine but would resonate with all women.
“It’s what I want to wear – beautifully cut fabric and clothes that I feel good in,” Rupapera explains. “Rather than start from scratch I thought, ‘who can I work with and who are my favourite designers, and immediately thought of Turet.”
The new range of Black on Black. Photo / Amy Robinson, Robinson Studios NZ
“It was the same when it came to selecting a hero artist/print for the collection.”
Knuefermann and Hinerangi both immediately said “yes” and the collaboration was born.
Hongi, the Māori Mermaid artwork chosen by Rupapera, is a beautiful illustration of two women doing a hongi and printed on each piece. “For me it’s about connectivity – connectivity of the wearer, the depth of the design and positioning of it and the subtlety of the black on black. It draws you in but it’s not loud or obvious,” says Rupapera.
Many of Hinerangi’s illustrations are focused on self-aroha and reconnection. “The Hongi artwork is inspired by the idea that we must awhi ourselves in whatever we are doing in life and allow that cyclical mauri to flow and connect us to the universe. When I think of hongi I am reminded that sharing breath with others is sharing breath with the self, and we are all linked together,” says Hinerangi.
“It’s super exciting and special to be collaborating with Unity Collection and Knuefermann. I met Tania in Taranaki at a talk for Awa Wahine and I’ve been inspired by her ever since.
“I said yes because I love working with other Māori and I trust Tania’s vision. I’m honoured to have my mahi beside so many other ātaahua māori toi and taonga in Unity. I also couldn’t say no to working with a Ngāruahine businesswoman – it’s a goal of mine to work with as many cuzzies as possible!”
As a New Zealander growing up with close Māori connections, Knuefermann says she has been incredibly inspired by the wairua of Māori people and their selfless kindness, mana, presence and humility.
“It has been a pleasure to work with Tania on this,” says Knuefermann. “Upholding Māori culture and traditions is essential for preserving and promoting the unique identity of New Zealand. A collaboration between Māori designers and fashion industry players like Knuefermann raise awareness and showcase the rich cultural heritage of the Māori people. Such initiatives promote cultural appreciation and foster a deeper understanding of Māori traditions.”
