Paris Fashion Week: Viktor & Rolf F/W 2013

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are taking no risks this autumn-winter season. Following the trend to de-clutter the catwalk, the Dutch duo known as Viktor & Rolf replaced their normally inventive art-infused style with simpler silhouettes and a muted palette of black and white. "It's a feelling of wanting to be real, a wardrobe for women to wear," Horsting said backstage. "And slightly rebellious," he added. "Slightly" was the key word here. There were some subtle nods to rebellion, like dropped waist lines and short flared minis (a clever play on peplums.) But at times it felt like the boundary-pushing excitement that made them famous in the '90s was in hibernation this winter. Perhaps they are tapping into their commercial potential?