Mexican chilli beans

Tam West

My greatest food experiences involve more than just some ingredients and a method. In a recipe I’m usually trying to hold a mental impression of the dish and describe steps I hope will get you to the same place. This time I hope to guide you to a food state-of-mind I enjoy hugely: a Mexican chilli headrush taste tsunami.

The basic recipes are good, an evolution of my favourite meal after years of tweaking, but it’s how they work together that makes this really sing.

No need to fret about the absence of animal protein, there’s a big range of taste and texture here: serious bite, chew and char in the tortillas, juicy wet savoury salsa, a rich warm fragrant mash of beans, the cold crisp sweet crunch of lime-dressed salad, plus a sneaky snap and melt of dark chocolate.

All these set the stage for the star of the show: fresh hot chillies chopped finely and served alongside, ready for each person to delve into as they dare. Forget the supermarkets, to get the interesting ones go to ethnic fruit and vege shops or friends who grow them and know them. Each human has a personal level when it comes to chilli, but trust me when I say it’s so worth pushing your boundaries a little. Take it slow at first.

Each bite of chilli stokes the heat a little more till my mouth is tingling, radiant and glowing. Then I dare myself to push it just a little too far (fear and excitement are the same thing viewed differently). That’s the perfect time to combine a mouthful of warm beans with a piece of chocolate. Like mole sauce in your mouth, let that sweet velvety richness smother your tastebuds (fats and sugar ease the chilli burn). Delve into the salad whenever you want a burst of sweet tang to freshen your mouth for the next round.

I see this as gourmet peasant food: rustic and messy but with great attention to flavour combinations and the overall effect.

Chilli beans & corn tortillas

1 ½ Tbsp	Coriander seeds, crushed
1 ½ tsp	Caraway seeds, freshly ground
1 tsp	Cumin seeds, freshly ground
3 Tbsp	Olive oil
1 can	Tomato passata, a 440g can
¼ tsp	Kashmiri chilli powder
½ tsp	Black pepper
1 ½ tsp	Salt
2 cans	Kidney beans (Main)
1 tsp	Smoked paprika
2 cups	Masa corn flour, available from good supermarkets or speciality food stores
½ tsp	Salt
1 ¼ cups	Warm water, approx.

Salsa

10	Cherry tomatoes, chopped finely
1 can	Tomato passata, a 440g can
½ tsp	Salt
¼ tsp	Kashmiri chilli powder
1 large handful	Fresh coriander, chopped finely
1 small	Red chilli, choose a hot variety, very finely chopped
½	Limes, juiced

Salad

10 cm	Cucumbers, cut chunky
½	Green pepper, cut chunky
½	Red peppers, cut chunky
½	Yellow peppers, cut chunky
¾ cup	Corn kernels
12	Cherry tomatoes, halved
½ tsp	Salt
1 small	Avocado, cut chunky
1	Golden kiwifruit, peeled and cut chunky
1	Lime, juiced
1 drizzle	Extra virgin olive oil
1 handful	Fresh coriander, chopped roughly
10 leaves	Fresh basil, chopped roughly
2 sprigs	Fresh mint, chopped finely

Directions

For the beans

1. Fry coriander, caraway and cumin seeds in olive oil for a few seconds until sizzling.
2. Add tomato, kashmiri chilli, pepper and salt, then cook 5 minutes.
3. Add beans with their juice and the smoked paprika and cook 15 minutes, mashing a little with a fork every now and then. Time is your friend here: these can simmer away while your tortilla team works. Add a little water if needed to keep the beans a bit runny.

For the tortillas

1. Put the masa flour and salt in a bowl with the warm water. Use your hands to mix thoroughly, adding a touch more water if needed to form into a smooth clump. Divide into about 10 equal pieces and roll to form even balls.
2. Get a heavy pan medium hot. Either use a tortilla press or lay a sheet of baking paper on a smooth bench, placing a ball in the middle and covering with another piece of baking paper. Squash down with a heavy pan or board, then use a rolling pin to quickly roll out to about 2mm thick.
3. Lift off the bench then carefully peel back the baking paper from one side, gently tipping on to your hand while peeling back the other side. Using a quick smooth motion, flop the tortilla evenly on to the surface of the hot pan. Don't touch it for a minute — you need to give it time to firm up so it can handle being moved.
4. Cook it to a light brown, then flip it over, letting it char and get a bit crunchy. Turn again and cook till well browned on both sides.

Take a look at Aaron's how-to guide for

step-by-step instructions on making tortillas.

For the salsa

1. Combine all ingredients and mix well.
2. Taste and add salt or chilli if you like more.

For the salad

1. Place the cucumber and peppers in a mixing bowl with corn kernels.
2. Add the tomatoes then sprinkle the cut surfaces of the tomato with ¼ tsp of the salt. Leave a couple of minutes so the salt can draw out the sweet tomato juice, then mix together.
3. Add the avocado and golden kiwifruit, and sprinkle with the other ¼ tsp of salt, the lime juice and olive oil. Mix gently.
4. Finally, add the chopped herbs, just tucking them in so you don't mash the avocado and kiwifruit.

To serve

• Serve the beans in a bowl, they should be on the runny side so you can scoop them up with torn chunks of crunchy tortilla.
• Put some finely chopped fresh chilli in a little bowl with a teaspoon so everyone can help themselves to just the right amount.
• Keep some chocolate - I recommend Whittaker's Kaitaia Fire Chilli Pepper Spice chocolate - handy for when the chilli starts to get too much.