Mambo returns to roots for mass appeal

Mambo, led by Angus Kingsmill (second from left), launches its new and cheaper range this month from The Warehouse and streetwear stores. Photo / Supplied

Mambo clothing, best known for its edgy artwork, has reinvented itself and is about to launch into New Zealand's mass market.

The Australian-owned label suffered a lean patch for much of the past decade in the hands of a listed clothing conglomerate but its new owners say they have taken it back to its roots, with clothes featuring strong political and social commentary and humour.

And with the recession's hangover leaving consumers limiting their spending on casual clothes, the company is cutting prices, veering away from being confined to surf shops.

From the end of the month they are going to sell through The Warehouse.

"In this economic environment people are looking for more of a value offering and with just so many brands out there [in surf shops] the pie is way too small and being cut too fine," said Mambo managing director Angus Kingsmill.

Since buying the business two years ago, Kingsmill and his partners are selling the reborn Mambo line through surf chains but also at Myer and The Warehouse equivalent, Big W. It is also about to expand into Brazil, and is revitalising itself in Asia and Europe.

Established in 1984, its "farting dog" T-shirt was a signature design for the company, which grew from a small screen printing business to one that sold clothes and accessories around the world. It was closely linked to New Zealand through Kiwi artists Reg Mombassa and Paul McNeil.

Kingsmill said Mombassa's work is so closely associated with the brand some people think he owns the company.

Its original owners sold out in 2000, around the time it went fully mainstream, attracting international attention by dressing the Australian Olympic team but losing its street cred.

Everyone wanted a Mambo loud shirt and its new owners, Gazal Corporation, which sold work wear and lingerie, took it out of surf shops and into upmarket department store David Jones. Mambo became lost among its corporate stablemates.

"The previous owners tried to reinvent it and turn it from a surf wear brand with a difference and turn it into a streetwear brand. Some say it was at its peak in 2000 but it was also at a time when it went from being very irreverent to mass commercial."

Kingsmill said Mambo was going back to the original pillars of surf, art and humour and trying to modernise them. Mombassa is back with the brand with 15 other artists and Mambo is running a talent search for new designers.

The range is expanding beyond clothing to associated licensed gear carrying the Mambo look, including surfboards, skateboards, boogie boards and bikes.

Kingsmill said the key to getting into the mass market was getting the pricing right. Through The Warehouse the T-shirt range could start below $20. In surf shops a slightly different range would start at around $35.

"Our margins may be a little skinnier but we're looking at the volume."

Paul Keane of retail consultants RCG said selling through The Warehouse made sense. Any retailer dependent on the top-end discretionary spending from a narrow age band was doing it tough.

"Consumers aren't spending like they were and it's coming down through the age groups. Gaining entry through a major discounter through The Warehouse is a good move."

Kingsmill said there was a limit to how mainstream Mambo could go.

The company was holding back on the loud shirts and was targeting 16- to 29-year-olds.

"We don't want to disenfranchise our loyal supporters from the 80s and 90s but that said, it's very important not to become your dad's brand which has been a bit an issue for all the big surf brands."

But the farting dog is back after being put down by Gazal in 2004.

Said Kingsmill: "We're lighting that fart for all it's worth."

Talent quest
Mambo is searching for New Zealand's next top artist for their next collection, who will also win a MacBook Pro.

mamboartistsearch.com