WASHINGTON - Generations of farmers in the flat expanses of the American Midwest have wrested a living by growing corn, collecting federal subsidies or by raising pigs. Now, increasing numbers are doing so by raising a glass.
In states such as Iowa, Wisconsin and even the remote Dakotas,
farmers are clearing fields long devoted to traditional crops and planting vines as the Midwest seeks to join the likes of Napa, Sonoma and New York state as the latest wine region in the United States. Such is the pace of growth that in Iowa alone, a new winery is licensed every two weeks.
"Iowa used to be a large grape-growing state but prohibition killed it off," said Stan Olson, owner of the Penoach Vineyard in Adel. "Now I think there are between 70 and 75 wineries in the state."
But whether North America's more established wine regions need to be concerned about the threat from this upstart is a matter of some dispute, despite the region already showing impressive results. This year, a wine from Ohio - a riesling - won the top prize for white wine at an international competition in California.
But given the harsh winter climate of the Midwest, most vineyards grow only so-called hybrid varietal grapes rather than the European grapes such as cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay. As a result, visitors to the region's wineries are more likely to find themselves drinking vidal blanc or chambourcin.
Gail Nonnecke, a professor at the University of Iowa's Department of Horticulture, said: "We have hybrid varieties which have the quality of the European grapes with the hardiness of the American species. That is why we are able to grow them. We have some wonderful wines that have an excellent taste."
While Iowa has received most attention for its wine boom - the state recently appointed its first full-time oenologist - the growth has had an important impact across the region.
The wine industry in Indiana has added US$34 million a year to the value of the local economy and the number of wineries in South Dakota has more than doubled - to 11.
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