Brisbane: Specialties of a survivor

Queensland has always been a trusty neighbour for a quick winter warm-up. But have the summer floods thrown a spanner in the works?

As a resident of quake-ravaged Christchurch, I was staggered to find that Brisbane has rebounded from its watery siege at lightning speed. Within the city centre, there are no discernible vestiges of damage or disruption. It's not until you head downriver that nature's destructive power comes into focus.

So what are the sights that uninitiated visitors shouldn't miss? The best way to get your bearings is to jump on a City Sights tour. Operating every half-hour, the tour's route takes in 19 of Brisbane's landmarks, slicing through vibrant villages like Fortitude Valley and Spring Hill and taking in cherished lookouts like Kangaroo Point and Mt Coot-tha.

The round-trip takes two hours, although the hop-on-hop-off service enables you to choose where you spend your time. Photogenic Fortitude Valley is well worth a stop. In 1859, the ship Fortitude sailed from England and up the Brisbane River with 250 settlers aboard. The disembarking point was named after the ship, and the area became a thriving trading centre. Nowadays it is Brisbane's bohemian nerve centre, with a slew of popular eateries, boutiques, a thriving live music scene and a Chinatown.

Four letters remain emblematic of Queensland - XXXX. Amber ale fans will certainly enjoy the historic Castlemaine-Perkins XXXX Brewery tour. It costs $18, but does include four ales.

Brisbane's compact city centre fits snugly into a horseshoe-shaped loop in the river. Colourful Queen St Mall throbs with powerhouse retailers, the Victorian-era Queensland Arcade and al-fresco dining. The subtropical climate enables the mall to play host to nightly live, free entertainment under the stars. Fabulous.

For history buffs, exploring the architectural gems of the colonial era is easily accomplished on foot. Amongst the gleaming glass towers, pint-sized historic churches add texture and dignity. Anzac Square is a reflective urban oasis and the Memorial Rotunda is a masterpiece.

The Old Windmill dates back to convict days and was Brisbane's first industrial building. Treadmills were added and recalcitrant convicts were placed on them for some corrective punishment!

Jewel-box Parliament House is a heritage drawcard, thanks to its French Renaissance design interspersed with subtropical touches, and the sublime stained-glass Queen Victoria window.

The Rendezvous hotel, opposite Central Station, is a heritage-listed retreat exuding old-world grace and fitted out with every modern comfort.

TOP TIPS

* Air New Zealand connects Kiwis to Brisbane daily, with direct services from Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. Seat-only airfares start from $159 one way, with  flexibility over which additional in-flight services you wish to use. For the best available airfare deals, go to www.airnewzealand.co.nz

* A terrific place to lay your head is among the beautifully restored splendour of the heritage-listed Rendezvous Brisbane. This deluxe hotel features 134 rooms, and a great-value option for business travellers is the Business Benefits package.  Just $27.50 buys access to a slew of extras, including full breakfast, unlimited internet access and a laundering service. See www.rendezvoushotels.com/brisbane

WEBSITE OF THE WEEK

www.ourbrisbane.com

Brisbane has positioned itself as "Australia's New World City".  Its proactive city council is walking the talk with an outstanding website, principally geared for locals but equally valuable for visitors, which is constantly updated with tips on Brisbane's best buys, best eats, free events and so on.