With a barely-4-year-old and a not-quite-2-year-old, in a 32-foot boat sailing up the Inside Passage, a family discovers the best rewards are those never imagined.

This was the third time I'd sailed up the Inside Passage in a boat. The third time I'd watched surf explode from the rocky headlands of northern Vancouver Island, the swell rhythmically shifting my view of the horizon. The umpteenth time I'd listened to the weather forecast on the VHF radio while gulls catapulted past me in the wind. But it was the first time I'd done a trip like this with young children on