Hospitality staff arranging tableware at the Dharampura Haveli, an 18th-century haveli-turned-heritage hotel in the old quarters of Delhi. Once the grand residences of Mughal-era nobility, the Indian capital's haveli homes now stand at fragile crossroads - a handful lovingly restored but many more sliding quietly into ruin. Photo / Manan Vatsyayana, AFP
Hospitality staff arranging tableware at the Dharampura Haveli, an 18th-century haveli-turned-heritage hotel in the old quarters of Delhi. Once the grand residences of Mughal-era nobility, the Indian capital's haveli homes now stand at fragile crossroads - a handful lovingly restored but many more sliding quietly into ruin. Photo / Manan Vatsyayana, AFP
Once the grand residences of Mughal-era nobility, the Indian capital’s haveli homes now stand at a fragile crossroads - a handful lovingly restored but many more sliding quietly into ruin.
Across Old Delhi - the 17th‑century walled city founded as the Mughal capital Shahjahanabad -cracked facades, shut gateways and saggingbalconies tell the story of a heritage under siege from neglect, inheritance battles and relentless urban pressure.
Only a few restored pockets provide a glimpse of what once was - airy courtyards, carved sandstone pillars and homes built around a deeply social way of life.
Inside one restored mansion that now houses a cultural centre, sunlight filters through stained glass onto carved sandstone arches, the air infused with freshly polished wood and rosewater.
Musicians tune their instruments in a frescoed courtyard, where nobles may once have entertained guests, offering a rare peek into Old Delhi’s rich architectural past.
Khanna also blamed bureaucratic hurdles for discouraging restoration.
The Dharampura Haveli in the old quarters of Delhi. Photo / Manan Vatsyayana, AFP
“There should be some kind of a single window for anyone who is working with heritage,” he said, arguing that easing red tape would be more effective than offering subsidies for restoration.
Another prominent restoration is the 18th century Haveli Dharampura, now converted into a heritage hotel.
“Restoration in Old Delhi is still isolated unless there is sustained support and awareness,” said Vidyun Goel, whose family owns the property.
Residents say family disputes and the push to convert properties into shops or apartments have led to rapid decline.
In nearby Roshanpura, only a scattering of old homes still stand. Among them, the century-old Mathur ki Haveli is a rare example of a lived-in heritage home.
Showpiece projects
“We are in love with this house,” said Ashok Mathur, a fourth‑generation resident who continues to live in the ancestral property despite mounting challenges.
Wooden ceilings are deteriorating, floors are wearing thin and doors require constant repair, he said, walking through rooms that bear only traces of intricate craftsmanship.
Still, he said he has never considered leaving -- although he can only imagine the social world that once defined haveli life.
“There is no community left,” Mathur, 56, said. “We are living in a cocoon.”
Conservationist K. T. Ravindran said that while Old Delhi is economically vibrant, its havelis suffer from unclear titles and multiple claimants.
“Often buildings that look intact from outside conceal deeper damage,” he said, noting that the condition was worse in the inner lanes hidden from public view.
Ravindran said revival was still possible, but only through neighbourhood‑level regeneration rather than isolated showpiece projects.
Oral historian Sohail Hashmi said each haveli once formed part of “a larger social ecosystem of neighbourhoods, crafts and traditions”, with architecture and community deeply intertwined.
As Khanna put it, the loss goes beyond architecture.
