Ghost of killer waves still haunts Papua New Guinea villagers

AITAPE - Grief overlies nearly everything as communities rebuild following the tsunami which struck Aitape, in isolated part of Papua New Guinea's north coast on July 17, 1998.

There is still a numbness of spirit from the carnage caused by three huge waves, triggered by two offshore earthquakes that measured 7 on the Richter scale.

It is difficult to imagine the power of these waves, towering 15m high.

But the statistics tell the story: three densely populated villages on the sandbar fringing Sissano Lagoon destroyed, as well as most of a fourth village further west; more than 2200 people killed; 1000 injured; 10,000 homeless; 95 orphaned; and 11 amputees.

The tsunami shattered lives and many villagers remain traumatised.

"The people had built up so much only to lose it all in a few minutes," says Tas Maketu, chairman of the Catholic Diocese of Aitape Rehabilitation Committee (Rehab), the channel for foreign aid.

"Their pride, dignity and self-respect were completely destroyed."

Today there are new villages inland that were care centres during the crucial stages of the rehabilitation.

Nine new schools have been opened or are being built, as well as a number of aid posts. Rehab has faced huge demands on its resources, such as building roads and bridges.

Rehab is now scaling down its work.

This is a relief for Maketu, who lost his 83-year-old mother in the tsunami.

"I've carried so much pain in this work. It's the toughest assignment of my life," he says.

"Rehab's work has been a painful exercise for every member of the committee. We feel the pain in our blood, muscles and flesh."

Rehab has been accused of corruption over its allocation of aid money, he said.

Many accusations have been levelled at Maketu. "We've run a very clean organisation. To date I'm not aware of any donor expressing any dissatisfaction."

Rehab's books got a clean bill of health when audited last September.

Three trust funds have been set up for tsunami victims. One trust pays school fees for students; another helps traumatised people; the third pays for the care of the 11 amputees.

No one moved to the new villages by choice. Survivors had to take whatever land was available. Moving inland has been difficult for many of the coastal people, who have had to replace traditional fishing expertise with gardening to ensure their livelihood.

They are sad they cannot go fishing at night or hear the familiar sound of crashing waves.

Land disputes have occurred because there is not enough space. Transporting food has also been a problem and rivalry among communities over benefits from aid money has caused tension. Families have splintered, drinking, crime and domestic violence have increased.

Adam Elliott, an Australian journalist working as a volunteer with Rehab, said: "Because there is less communication within families and communities, it's easier for them to fight."

Using alcohol to escape their problems, people find their health is affected, they are depressed, cannot sleep, cannot relax and start to get sick.

"Rehab is helping to rebuild communities quickly or put in place an environment which they once had," Elliott said.

The coconut tree-fringed Sissano Lagoon is once again placid, with little sign of the tsunami's destruction. An unofficial fishing ban has been lifted.

The people are generally friendly, but at times withdrawn. Grief still shows in their eyes.

"Each of them has a story. Some don't want to talk about their experiences and some do," Maketu said.

Mother of eight Elizabeth Moskir lost her 18-year-old adopted daughter, 2-year-old son, 9-year-old son and her uncle on the night of the tsunami.

"My heart is still in pain for them. I find it hard to call their names," she said.

Seminarian Joe Amanos said most people now don't know where their friends or relatives live because they were scattered all over the region.

"I don't know where people are now or whether they're dead or alive."

But the villagers must adapt, he said.

"It's a problem, but that's life and you have to live with that."

- NZPA