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Home / World

Christmas in Bethlehem: Biblical city boasts largest festivities in years

By Isabel Debre
Other·
24 Dec, 2018 09:00 PM3 mins to read

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Palestinian scouts march through town ahead of Mass at the Church of the Nativity, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem. Photos / AP

Palestinian scouts march through town ahead of Mass at the Church of the Nativity, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem. Photos / AP

Pilgrims from around the world flocked to Bethlehem for what was believed to be the biblical West Bank city's largest Christmas celebrations in years.

Hundreds of locals and foreign visitors milled in Manger Square as bagpipe-playing Palestinian Scouts paraded past a giant Christmas tree.

Crowds flooded the Church of the Nativity, venerated as the traditional site of Jesus' birth, and waited to descend into the ancient grotto.

Palestinian Tourism Minister Rula Maaya said all Bethlehem hotels were fully booked, and the city was hosting an "astounding" 10,000 tourists.

"We haven't seen numbers like this in years," she said, adding that the three million visitors to Bethlehem this year exceeded last year's count by hundreds of thousands.

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Solemn-faced nuns and enthused tourists crossed themselves and bowed over their rosaries as they entered the church, the air thick with incense.

Linda Selbmann, 24, of Chemnitz, Germany, said she had long dreamed of celebrating Christmas in Bethlehem.

"It's wild to be in the place it all began," she said, sipping Turkish coffee in front of a statue of the Virgin Mary cradling the infant Jesus.

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The Christmas festivities traditionally bring a boost of holiday cheer to Christians in the Holy Land, whose numbers have shrunk over the decades and make up just a small percentage of the local population.

As the sun set on Manger Square, the enormous Christmas tree lit up and the city's ancient passageways shone with coloured string lights and flashing crosses. Choirs sang classic carols and hymns, their voices echoing throughout the plaza.

Palestinian youths peddled Santa hats to tourists and shop windows bearing signs reading "Jesus Is Here" displayed olivewood Nativity scenes and other souvenirs.

Earlier in the day, Archbishop Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Roman Catholic cleric in the Holy Land, entered Bethlehem after crossing an Israeli military checkpoint from Jerusalem.

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Archbishop Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Roman Catholic cleric in the Holy Land, and his entourage arrive at the Church of the Nativity.
Archbishop Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the top Roman Catholic cleric in the Holy Land, and his entourage arrive at the Church of the Nativity.

Palestinian security personnel and vehicles stationed around the square reminded visitors that amid the merriment, they couldn't quite escape the city's political reality.

Bethlehem is located in the Palestinian-controlled area of the West Bank, and much of the city lies behind Israel's separation barrier.

"Last year things were worse because the injustice was so obvious," said Maaya, referring to US President Donald Trump's decision to recognise Jerusalem as the capital of Israel, incensing the Palestinians and igniting clashes.

"But this year doesn't feel so different. We are still occupied, and we always have problems," she said.

A Christian worshipper prays at the Grotto, under the Church of the Nativity, traditionally recognized by Christians to be the birthplace of Jesus Christ.
A Christian worshipper prays at the Grotto, under the Church of the Nativity, traditionally recognized by Christians to be the birthplace of Jesus Christ.

Monjed Jadou, a Bethlehem resident, said that although he noticed an impressive amount of foreigners in the square, the crowds of Palestinian visitors appeared thinner than usual.

"Security is tighter around here than it's been in a while, and the streets feel less safe. I think people are afraid," he said, adding that his friends from the West Bank city of Ramallah decided not to come because the Israeli Army had been blocking roads around the city.

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The West Bank has seen a spike in violence in recent weeks, set off by a pair of deadly shootings targeting Israeli soldiers and settlers claimed by the Islamic militant group Hamas. Israel has ratcheted up security at checkpoints as it presses on with its manhunt for suspected Palestinian assailants.

Other visitors seemed unconcerned by recent violence in the area.

"This has been No. 1 on my bucket list," said Yohannes Denu, 42, of Los Angeles. "There's no better place to be as a Christian, it takes me back to all the rich stories I heard growing up. To be at the centre of my faith, it's joyous, it's unbelievable."

- AP

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