Back on the beaches

Metres from where the bulldozers were clearing up the wreckage on Patong beach, tourists were supping beer by candlelight at the Kangaroo bar.

Amid the images of grief and devastation wrought by the tsunami, new pictures emerged of tourists sunning themselves on beaches where just days earlier bodies had been washed up.

While hundreds of relatives of the missing gathered at Phuket city hall in a frantic search for loved ones, tourists continued to arrive or to stay on holiday.

In the coastal areas of Thailand and the Maldives, managers of surviving hotels reported a steady passage of new arrivals.

While British tour operators have temporary cancelled all trips, a large number of customers have chosen to complete their allotted time in the now-lacerated paradises.

The holidaymakers' return is likely to be welcomed by locals, as the swift revival of the tourism industry is vital to the regeneration of the devastated region.

At the Allamanda Laguna resort in Phuket, spared from a direct hit by the headland to its south, only some ground floor rooms and the resort's restaurants suffered. Casualties were light and within two days the beach fronts were cleared of debris.

As the tourists continued to enjoy the facilities at the luxurious resort, Asian Crisis Fund donation boxes were dotted around the hotel lobbies as it began outreach programmes to help staff and their families in harder-hit areas.

While most of the hotels in areas such as Khao Lak, Phang Nga and Phi Phi were destroyed, a large number in Phuket are still standing.

"We have had some cancellations but we are 80 per cent full," said Kameanat Hnong, front desk manager at the Allamanda. "We are a business and we want people to come, but if they call before we tell them the truth, there is a lot of damage but things are being cleared up. Our guests help but they want to enjoy themselves. They help to clear the beach and then they relax on the beach."

Despite pleas from Juthamas Siriwan, governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, to keep "inappropriate" New Year celebrations to a minimum, he said some preparations were under way.

"It is not going to be so joyous a New Year, especially for those who lost loved ones, but a lot of the hotels and restaurants are starting to pick up new business," continued Siriwan.

Phuket was one of the hardest-hit areas in Thailand, where the death toll is estimated at 4500, including at least 2230 foreigners.

Colin Hunter, a Scottish 45-year-old management consultant, arrived on Tuesday to find many of the restaurants he knew from previous visits had simply disappeared.

Arriving at the hospital for treatment for a back problem, he said the true extent of the devastation became obvious.

"There are pictures all over the lobby of missing people, many are 1-year-olds to 6-year-olds, of all nationalities. It is devastating. There is a list of all those missing, dead or injured which runs into the hundreds. There is so much grief. I felt like a fraud.

"So much of the Thai economy's GDP comes from tourism. Phuket takes 30 to 40 per cent and it's empty. Some areas are devastated, others okay."

He said that many had cancelled or were leaving early but, among those remaining, the general attitude was that it could not happen again.

Nevertheless, he added: "But you are always looking over your shoulder now to see if there is something coming in."

Brian Keith, an American tourist, added: "It's not a holiday and I will not be celebrating New Year, but I can't go, it feels like a duty."

Meanwhile, snorkellers and divers were back enjoying the crystal waters around the Maldives' Furana Fushi Island yesterday, swimming past the wreckage of buildings.

Michaela Niedermeyer, 43, who floated to safety on an inflatable mattress after her waterside bungalow was swamped by the wave, said: "Definitely this thing is in the back of your mind and you think about it, but you continue your life."

The low-lying Indian ocean islands were hard hit with 69 deaths, including three British holidaymakers.

But only 19 of the country's 87 resorts have closed and occupancy remains at 52 per cent in the rest.

Tourism is the Maldives' economic mainstay and Ismail Firag, deputy director of the ministry, said new guests were starting to arrive.

Shujau Mahmood, general manager of Paradise Island resort on Male, said they had suffered some damage, but added: "Everything is working perfectly. There have been some cancellations but we are expecting new clients and those who are here are enjoying themselves as normal."

Yesterday, the Federation of Tour Operators said certain holiday companies would restart trips to some Sri Lankan and Thai coastal areas from January 8, subject to health and safety standards being met. Others have chosen to extend the ban until the end of January.

Customers not wishing to travel may cancel without charge for trips scheduled to leave by January 31. Tourist flights to the Maldives are expected to restart this weekend.

Frances Tuke, British tourism spokeswoman, said: "People's reaction to this disaster has been mixed. Some are keen to travel but others are understandably wary of visiting these areas.

"I think these areas will recover and it's important that British tourism helps to build local economies again."

- INDEPENDENT