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Home / World

A library thrives, quietly, in one of Pakistan's gun markets

By Haroon Janjua
New York Times·
18 Jun, 2019 10:25 PM4 mins to read

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Shifa Muhammad at work in the library opened by her father, Raj Muhammad, in Darra Adam Khel, Pakistan. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

Shifa Muhammad at work in the library opened by her father, Raj Muhammad, in Darra Adam Khel, Pakistan. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

The Darra Adam Khel Library, less than a year old and with more than 2,500 books, offers residents a respite from the arms bazaar that dominates local life.

This tribal district, about 136km west of Islamabad, is best known for its sprawling weapons bazaar. Walking through it, the sounds of workshop machinery and craftsmen striking hammers become a nearly musical backdrop.

A local book lover, Raj Muhammad, hopes it becomes known as the home of the Darra Adam Khel Library. Located near a gun shop that his father built 12 years ago, the library opened in August, and Muhammad considers it a labour of love as well as a message to the area and the wider world.

"I put books on the top of the gun market, making them superior to guns," he said. "It's a step for peace."

Muhammad, 32, earned a master's in Urdu literature from the University of Peshawar and worked for a Dubai tourism firm before returning to Pakistan to teach. Uninterested in his father's firearms business, he opened the library to give people in the area better access to books and education.

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It has even caught the attention of the market's arms sellers. Noor Ahmad Malik, sitting inside his gun shop, has gotten interested in books about India and Pakistan and Islamic history, calling the library the "best thing that happened recently for the people here."

The military is now helping to build a new library in the area. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
The military is now helping to build a new library in the area. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

Darra Adam Khel was under Taliban control for years until the Pakistani army cleared it in 2010. Still, it has been regularly targeted by militants, including a suicide bombing in 2012 that killed 16 people, and mosque attacks in 2010 that killed more than 60. With a population of more than 100,000, it is still largely no-man's land, where Pakistani law wasn't applicable until the merger of tribal areas in the neighbouring Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province last year.

Now the military is helping Muhammad build a new library that can accommodate up to 65 people, seeing it as a way to help residents recover from years of traumatic violence.

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Books on display at the Darra Adam Khel Library. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
Books on display at the Darra Adam Khel Library. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

"People are still reeling from the militancy, which has killed hundreds of civilians and soldiers," said a government official serving in the area, who spoke on the condition of anonymity as he is not authorised to speak with the news media. "They are more prone to fear and stress, particularly among children, and now the availability of books is a good option for knowledge and education."

Pakistan's literacy rate is 58 per cent among adults, and while there are no official figures for how many people read books or use libraries, they are believed to be low.

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Asad Omar, a gunsmith, works in his shop in Darra Adam Khel, Pakistan. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
Asad Omar, a gunsmith, works in his shop in Darra Adam Khel, Pakistan. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

"The Pakistan public library dilemma is sad," said Ameena Saiyid, one of the founders of the Adab Festival Pakistan, an annual literary event in Lahore.

The country, she added, "needs a network of public libraries in all cities, so that students and other readers don't have to buy every book they read. A library system would ensure a core market for publishers and would enable them to provide a steady stream of books to readers."

The library is the "best thing that happened recently for the people here," said Noor Ahmed Malik, left, at his ammunition store. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
The library is the "best thing that happened recently for the people here," said Noor Ahmed Malik, left, at his ammunition store. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

Muhammad's library holds more than 2,500 titles on a range of subjects, including history, politics, religion and Urdu fiction, and he plans to add more books in the coming months. Its most popular title is The Pathans, Sir Olaf Caroe's 1958 history of the Pashtun ethnic group. During a visit last month, Tehmina Durrani's My Feudal Lord, Pervez Musharraf's In the Line of Fire and Michael Wolff's Fire and Fury were on view.

In the nine months it has been open, it has drawn about 240 members, who pay 150 Pakistani rupees, about $1, a year. Thirty members are women, even though Darra Adam Khel is a conservative area where women are not allowed to go outside unaccompanied. They select books using the library's Facebook page.

Supplies at one of Darra Adam Khel's shops. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
Supplies at one of Darra Adam Khel's shops. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

One of them is Shifa Raj, Muhammad's 11-year-old daughter. A sixth grader and avid reader, she helps her father deliver books to the female members of the library.

"I told girls in the school that we have a library in our area: If you are interested, I will provide membership forms," she said. "The response was remarkable."

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Raj Muhammad walks through Darra Adam Khel's weapons market. "It's a step for peace," he said of his library. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times
Raj Muhammad walks through Darra Adam Khel's weapons market. "It's a step for peace," he said of his library. Photo / Saiyna Bashir, The New York Times

Muhammad considers the Pakistani activist Malala Yousufzai "our pride," for her efforts to champion education for girls and becoming the youngest Nobel Prize laureate.

"I was born here," Muhammad said. "I want the world to remember Darra Adam Khel with a good reputation, not for guns but for the books."

Written by: Haroon Janjua

Photographs by: Saiyna Bashir

© 2019 THE NEW YORK TIMES

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