Tianmen Mountain’s 99 Bending Road. Photo / Kerry Heaney
Kerry Heaney heads to Zhangjiajie, central China, and learns a few key lessons about what to do (and not to do) in the beautiful destination.
Zhangjiajie is best known for its soaring sandstone peaks and the glass bridge that launched a thousand Instagram posts, but this otherworldly destination also comes with a few surprising curveballs, many of which I learned the hard way.
From accidentally eating raw salamander (yes, really) to sweating through a forest hike in long pants, my trip was equal parts awe-inspiring and occasionally awkward. If you’re planning a visit to China’s Avatar-like mountain region, in Hunan province, here are five things I got wrong that you won’t have to.
It began innocently enough with yet another lazy-susan banquet in which dishes arrived in an endless procession. As a lover of sashimi, I quickly popped what appeared to be delicate, translucent fish slices into my mouth. Only later did I learn I’d just eaten raw giant salamander, a lizard-like creature so large (up to 1.8m) and so controversial that it’s both a farmed local delicacy and a threatened species. It was supposed to go into a hot pot soup!
Lesson: It’s okay to ask about what you’re eating. And when in doubt, stick to known Hunan classics like spicy smoked pork.
I arrived at the Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge full of confidence. At 430m long and hanging 300m above the canyon floor, it’s billed as the world’s longest and highest glass-bottomed bridge. I told myself it would be fine. Fun, even. I was wrong.
When I stepped down onto the glass, I made the mistake of looking down. The valley yawned beneath me, crystal clear through the glass panels, and a very long distance below. Walking across that open space suddenly didn’t seem so easy. I watched others preparing to bungy jump from under the bridge and decided to just take a step.
Tip: If you’re nervous about heights, go early when it’s less crowded. Take your time and don’t look straight down.
I researched Zhangjiajie’s elevation, and the misty mountain views lulled me into thinking it would be cool and breezy. So, I packed long pants, one T-shirt, and lots of warm layers. Instead, I found myself hiking through forests, sweating profusely while others floated by in moisture-wicking shirts, light flowing dresses, sun hats, and the holy grail of Chinese fashion, the foldable UV umbrella.
Tip: Check seasonal weather meticulously. Pack light, breathable clothes, and bring a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent (I used CinnaBalm) and plenty of water.
One of the highlights of the trip was a traditional meal at a Tujia restaurant. There was music, laughter, mountains of food and rice wine. Lots of rice wine. I’d been warned about rice wine before I left, with descriptions like “it goes down easily but kicks like a mule”.
When a trio of women in traditional dress appeared with a teapot and three bamboo funnels, I assumed that a generous round of rice wine was about to begin. Then my table cheerfully volunteered me as the designated taster. What followed was a theatrical display. The women poured the liquid into the funnels until it finally flowed into my mouth. As I braced for the liquor and imagined myself stumbling through the rest of the evening, the liquid hit my tongue, and it was tea. Just tea. Satisfying and entirely alcohol-free.
Tip: Don’t feel pressured to commit to a cultural ceremony before clarifying what it involves.
Tianmen Mountain is one of Zhangjiajie’s unmissable highlights, home to the world’s longest cable car ride, hair-raising glass skywalks, the dramatic Heaven’s Door rock arch, and the famous 999-step staircase. However, you can’t do it justice in just half a day.
Why not? Because everyone else has the same idea. From the moment the gates open, queues are long and relentless. If you haven’t splurged on a fast-track ticket, you could spend hours just getting to the top. By then, the crowds are thick, the pathways packed, and you’ll find yourself being pushed along with little chance to pause, breathe, or take in the jaw-dropping views.
Tip: Give Tianmen a full day. Start early, bring snacks, although there are plenty of food kiosks throughout, and don’t rush - it’s one of the most magical parts of Zhangjiajie.
Despite the hiccups, Zhangjiajie remains one of the most unforgettable places I’ve ever been. The scenery is jaw-dropping, the culture rich, and the adventures endlessly entertaining.
So yes, I ate a raw salamander. Yes, I panicked on a glass bridge. But I also walked through clouds at Tianzi Mountain, cruised a jade-green lake surrounded by cliffs, and discovered the beauty of a region that still feels like one of China’s best-kept secrets.
What should you do? Pack better clothes, ask about the menu, and make sure the pot is filled with tea. The rest? Go and figure it out for yourself. That’s half the fun.
The writer travelled as a guest of Wendy Wu Tours.