New Zealand’s gorgeous luxury lodges aren’t only for couples. After a night at Wharekauhau Country Estate, Stephanie Holmes thinks you should treat yourself to a solo stay, too.
New Zealand’s luxury lodges have all the elements you need for a romantic couples’ getaway. Perfectly appointed guest suites, gourmet food and wine, roaring fireplaces and staff who know exactly how to tread the line between helpfulness and obsequiousness.
But what happens if you want to travel solo? Will you stick out like a sore thumb? Will you spend the whole holiday alone, with no one else to talk to?
I put this to the test on a recent visit to Wairarapa’s stunning Wharekauhau Country Estate - the place Prince William and Kate Middleton chose for a private getaway in 2014 - and am happy to report, the answer is no.
Who says you need to be travelling in twos to enjoy epic vistas, fine dining, silver service, and indulgent pampering? Maybe Noah, but certainly not me. You deserve it as much as the couple in the cottage next to you (even if they are Wills and Kate).
Yes, there’s the cost to think about and no, it’s not cheap (ranging from $1650 per night in winter, going up to $4795 if you were to stay between December 15 and January 5). But if you’ve got the means to treat yourself, or you want to save up for something special, don’t wait until you have a plus one to accompany you. Why not take a weekend away from real life? Somewhere where you can sit for a while with a glass of champagne and a good view, knowing someone is on hand to assist your every need. Why not push yourself out of your comfort zone with exhilarating activities and the chance to chat to strangers?
I did all this, and came home feeling refreshed, restored and revitalised. Here are five things you’ll love about Wharekauhau, even as a solo traveller.
If you live alone, you might think me a little unhinged for recommending you spend thousands of dollars to go somewhere to also be, well, alone. But have you ever noticed what an incredibly positive effect a change of scenery can have on your spirits? Especially a place like Wharekauhau, with scenery that stuns at every turn.
The lodge is in Wairarapa, about two hours’ drive from Wellington, over the Remutaka Hill, past Featherston, and tucked above Ocean Beach at Palliser Bay. It sits in the midst of moody mountain peaks, verdant pasturelands and thriving wetlands, gently rolling to cliffs that drop dramatically to black sand beaches and tumbling seas - nothing between you from here until Antarctica. This landscape has it all, and you’ll get uninterrupted views of it, whether you’re in the main lodge building, your cottage (one of 16), or roaming the property.
The views don’t stop when the sun goes down: this is Wairarapa, after all, New Zealand’s newest internationally certified Dark Sky Reserve. If conditions are right, you’ll be below a blanket of stars while you sleep under the expensive linen in your cottage. Or, take a hot water bottle and snuggly blanket from your closet, sit on the Adirondack chair on your secluded verandah, and stargaze. How could you possibly feel alone with all that celestial activity going on right above your head?
You certainly don’t need a plus one to feel entertained and invigorated at Wharekauhau. There’s a long list of activities, ranging from sedate wine and food tours to pulse-raising adrenalin activities like mountain biking and ATV tours, with expert guides to give instruction and keep you company. If you haven’t come equipped for gallivanting on a farm in winter, don’t worry - there’s a collection of pristine gumboots to borrow lined up at the door of the main lodge building, as well as rain jackets, gloves and sturdy umbrellas.
I pack a lot into my 24-hour stay – from claybird shooting on the banks of the Wharepapa river, to attempting to drive an ATV quad bike. I quickly realise the latter isn’t for me, but no matter, guide Ross instead grabs a two-seater ATV, and gives me a guided tour around the property. This gives the added benefit of me being able to ask him about the land, the lodge, and his life. That’s another advantage of being a solo visitor – you’re more likely to talk to the guides rather than just chatting to your partner.
If I were staying longer, I’d be able to give fishing and archery a go, visit Cape Palliser’s seal colony and famous lighthouse, or enjoy a guided star-gazing experience. There are also the lodge’s complimentary activities on offer, including an indoor heated swimming pool, outdoor hot tub, fitness centre and hiking trails. But for me, there’s no better solo treat than a spa treatment, so I book a relaxing full-body massage at the in-house Hauora Spa.
Travelling alone can sometimes feel lonely but there are enough friendly people - and animals - at Wharekauhau that this doesn’t need to be the case. It’s still a working farm, as it has been since the 1840s, and you can meander among the 6000 sheep and 300 Angus cattle or take a tour with farm manager Bradley Riggs. Watch native birds in the wetlands in front of your cottage, or play with Lodge Manager Richard Rooney’s black lab Merlot, who is often on site with his human. Guests can take Merlot for walks around the property - just ask the front desk and they’ll “check his busy schedule”.
The Lodge team are on hand if you feel like conversation – everyone I met was friendly, interesting and seemed to genuinely love their jobs.
There are also the other guests to get to know, and everyone comes together in the main lodge from 6.30pm each evening for cocktails, canapes and conversation. It’s an informal setting, especially as Wharekauhau’s dress code is “relaxed smart casual”. Settle into a comfortable armchair, enjoy your favourite pre-dinner drink and get to know your fellow guests. Who knows, you might make a new international friend.
Painstaking efforts have gone into the little details at Wharekauhau but they’re so cleverly done, they blend effortlessly into the background.
Everything seems to have been perfectly considered for maximum comfort. A four-poster bed with sheer oatmeal-linen drapes, gas fireplaces, sofas you can sink into, throws to keep you cosy, and outdoor chairs positioned facing the best views.
The views continue in the bathroom, whether in your oversized walk-in shower or from the deep-set bathtub. The only ones who’ll look in through the window while you’re soaking are the farm’s sheep... but they don’t seem to mind.
Spacious dressing rooms mean you can hide any detritus away from your living space. In your cupboard, you’ll find not only an iron but also a handheld steamer. If you don’t want to do your own ironing, guest services will call your cottage at 5pm every night to offer to iron something for you. Leave your shoes in a basket on your bed when you go for dinner and they’ll be returned the next morning, polished and buffed to a mirror-like shine, at no charge. I bet you don’t get that at home.
It’s obvious from the minute I step through the lodge doors that food and drink is a big focus for Wharekauhau – the smells emanating from the kitchen make my stomach growl. Every meal is one to write home about, whether a la carte breakfast, casual lunch, or degustation dinner.
Much of the produce used by Chilean executive chef Norka Mella Munoz and her team is foraged or grown on the property - fruit from the orchard; vegetables from the garden; native mint, wild sage, seaweed, and fennel pollen from the coast; kawakawa, horopito, wasabi, native spinach, manuka honey, elderflower, mushrooms and tamarillos from the hills. In a complete circle of sustainability, what isn’t used in the lodge is donated to local food banks.
You won’t be surprised to learn that wine plays an important part in lodge life, as Wharekauhau’s US billionaire owner Bill Foley also has 24 wineries in his portfolio, seven of which are in New Zealand - two in Wairarapa itself. (He’s also clearly a fan of TV show Ted Lasso, as he recently bought two football teams, one in England, one in France. Perhaps expect to see some soccer-related activities on the list soon).
Sommelier Adrien Champigny joined the Wharekauhau team in 2018 and has made it his mission to expand and improve the lodge’s wine list. As well as Foley Family wines, you’ll find a tempting selection of New Zealand and international drops to enjoy with your meals, and Champigny’s extensive knowledge will help you find the perfect drop.
If spirits are more your thing, let Champigny take you through a tasting of Lighthouse Gin, a local company of which Foley bought a majority share in 2018. Drinking straight gin isn’t my usual Saturday afternoon, but Champigny makes it a fun experience, taking me and another guest through the intricacies of four different types of gin, produced by hand in small batches by head distiller Rachel Hall.
Meals can be as casual or as memorable as you like – pay a small service fee to dine in your cottage, choose from one of a variety of dining locations in the main lodge, or opt for the “Chef in the Wild” experience, where you’ll enjoy a catered “picnic”, cooked in front of you by one of the lodge’s talented chefs, in a scenic spot outdoors on the farm.
For the ultimate treat, you don’t even need to be staying overnight at the lodge. As I get ready to check out and take the two-hour car transfer to the airport, a group has buzzed in by helicopter, visiting just for lunch. They land on the lawn in front of the lodge and are whisked to one of the dining rooms for a wine-matched lunch. What a lovely way to arrive, and an even better way to spend an afternoon. I guess there’s always next time…
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For more information, whether travelling solo, in a couple or a group, go to wharekauhau.co.nz
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