Mission Beach is a tiny town with a population of about 1500 people, located an easy two-hour drive from Cairns. Photo / Tourism Tropical North Queensland
An easy two-hour drive from Cairns, Mission Beach is the tiny beach town that’s fast becoming an Australian hot spot, writes Alexia Santamaria
Modern travellers are a tricky bunch. We yearn for destinations with an element of the undiscovered, but not so undiscovered we have to forgo any creature comforts.
We seek holidays with unique and authentic experiences yet crave the convenience of the well-trodden path - it’s a complicated equation.
Mission Beach is one of those rare spots at the perfect stage of tourism; with a variety of engaging activities, intriguing food options, idyllic beaches that stretch on for days, and great accommodation. It somehow still remains quaint, quirky, and ‘local’ enough to avoid that tourist trap feeling.
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An easy two-hour drive from Cairns, Mission Beach is a tiny town of around 1500 people. Its recent claim to fame is as the set of the Netflix series, Irreverent. Many locals were extras, and some cafes and shops even display proud pictures of ‘that time Hollywood came to town.’
It’s not hard to see why it was chosen - its vast blush-hued sands, sparkly waves lapping the shoreline, and palm trees swaying lazily in the sun are a director’s dream.
There’s a haphazard set of shops in the centre, and there are little indications everywhere that it was once populated mainly by hippies and artists (organic cafes, boho dress sense, lots of art). It was definitely more popular with backpackers than those seeking a luxurious escape.
But that is slowly changing. The rebirth of the Elandra Resort last year has introduced some more upscale accommodation to the scene, complete with stunning architecture and pool, stylish rooms, beautiful views - and a cracking restaurant you can visit, even if you’re not staying.
If food is your thing, you’ll be surprised by some of the other excellent options in this tiny town.
There’s Charlie’s Beach House where the talented owner, who is Middle Eastern but raised in the Caribbean, melds a fusion of his cultures with local produce. “It was a no-brainer when I saw all those banana plantations - I knew I must be able to get plantain too, which is a staple in Caribbean cuisine.”
Charlie has a wild-looking steampunk-style smoker out the front, so brisket undergoes a 20-hour cook like no other. The blend of his heritage is evident: flatbread, tahini creme, and smoked eggplant sit happily next to black beans, smoked brisket, jerk chicken, and patacones on the menu. There’s a reason it can be hard to get a table in this rustic beachfront eatery.
And then there’s Laundro Lounge. A small town in tropical north Queensland is not exactly where you’d expect to find a laundromat serving cocktails and excellent food from chefs that rotate every two weeks, but that’s exactly what’s happening in the main street.
The owners fly in chefs from their Melbourne businesses so it can be authentic Sri Lankan one fortnight, then Middle Eastern, Italian, or Cuban the next. It may be hard to wrap your head around washing your smalls while you eat, but trust me, I did it, and it was the most interested I’ve ever been in laundry.
Even the local brewhouse has better-than-average food. The Garage serves up mouthwatering pizzas and a selection of other big-flavour options like Barramundi fish curry in banana leaf and beef skewers with local Papaya salad.
And if you ever need a sweet treat, many local shops sell the highly addictive Feel Good Bananas, made in Mission Beach using broken bananas dipped in organic chocolate and frozen.
And there’s plenty to keep you busy too.
Reef Adventures run a lively, fun trip out to the enchanting Great Barrier Reef, particularly good for anyone looking for a bit of adrenaline as the boat ride out is as life-affirming as the snorkelling.
The spots they take you to are pristine, and you can’t turn your head in any direction without encountering another school of darting vibrant tropical fish. It’s pretty common to see turtles, and the area is a great breeding ground, so you won’t only see larger fish but plenty of tiny friends too. The crew is considerate and empathetic with everyone, even if you’re not a confident swimmer.
There’s big history with the Great Barrier Reef in these parts - 15 minutes up the road in Bingil Bay is where John Busst launched his campaign to end all mining and other exploitation of it in the 1960s, which ultimately led to it becoming the protected marine treasure it is today.
If you’re feeling even more adventurous, Mission Beach is a popular spot for skydiving. I can personally attest that jumping out of a plane at 4570m, freefalling, then gliding silently in over the reef, landing right on the beach will forever be a life highlight.
There are also picturesque swimming holes, white water rafting on the beautiful Tully Gorge, sugar cane plantation tours, and the whimsical, heritage-listed wonderland that is Paronella Park is only a 40-minute drive away.
Built by Spanish immigrant Jose Paronella in the 1930s, this 5ha property had a castle, waterfalls, a giant ballroom, and vibrant botanical gardens in its heyday and is now preserved as eerily fabulous extensive moss-covered ruins. It’s well worth the guided tour, and you can even feed fish and turtles.
The local walks are also magical; while New Zealanders are no strangers to beautiful beaches, this is different as the soft sands lead directly into ancient rainforest, which predates the Amazon significantly.
One minute you’re walking amidst twisted vines, well aware there are cassowaries in that dense foliage, the next minute you pop out on a beach that looks like it’s been ripped straight out of a Tourism Australia campaign.
And as if all of this couldn’t get any better, there’s chocolate. Mission Beach is home to Charley’s, one of the few places in the Southern Hemisphere where you can see the whole tree-to-bean process from those magical cacao pods on bushes to bars that have won recognition at the International Cocoa Of Excellence programme at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris.
On that artisan food thread, there’s a lot of it at the Pocket, which stocks many local Queensland sauces, cookies, rubs, preserves, pickles, and gorgeous items for your home.
It’s an old packing shed, and if you turn up on the weekends, it’s an amazing community space - there’s always something going on, from farmers’ markets to second-hand clothing events. You can grab a coffee and one of their legendary toasties or an icecream made from fruit they grow themselves (don’t miss the soursop) - kids will love feeding the farm animals too.
In short, there really is something for every type in Mission Beach. It’s the perfect mix of small-town charm, quirky characters, and impressive tourist activities. And soon is probably the right time to visit, lest any of that should change.
MISSION BEACH, QUEENSLAND
Fly from Auckland to Cairns with one stopover with Jetstar, Qantas and Air NZ. The drive time to Mission Beach is about two hours.
queensland.com/nz/en/home
Some domestic regional flights have been affected.