From mountains to beaches, Albania is a family-friendly holiday destination. Photo / 123RF
Stunning beaches, an abundance of thrilling outdoor pursuits and the friendliest locals - this is why Albania is quietly becoming one of Europe’s best destinations for a family holiday, writes Emily-Ann Elliott.
As my independent 18-month-old wriggled free from my grasp and waddled off confidently down the aisle of the plane ahead of our flight to Albania, I steeled myself for concerned looks from other passengers. Often when I’m travelling with my two young children, I end up tying myself in knots in my eagerness to not disturb others.
Instead, I was surprised to see him greeted by countless smiles, high-fives and the odd hair ruffle. An elderly lady dressed entirely in black gave me a smile almost as toothless as my toddler’s and laughed as she turned to watch him pass by. This was the start of my family’s love affair with Albania, truly one of the most family-friendly countries we have ever travelled in.
READ MORE: Discover Albania: Europe’s hidden gem on the brink of a tourist boom.
We have just returned from a second visit where my children, now aged 3 and 6, were cooked special portions of petulla (a traditional fried dough breakfast) by guesthouse owners, introduced to family dogs, cats and goats and welcomed with open arms into one of the country’s best restaurants.
“Albanians cherish children above all else. You’ll find your kids receiving VIP treatment everywhere you go,” says Emma Heywood, the owner of Undiscovered Balkans, which has just launched a second family-friendly activity holiday to Albania after seeing growing demand for this type of trip. “This year, we’ve seen a record number of enquiries and bookings from families eager to explore Albania and the wider Balkans. Parents who once backpacked themselves now want to share those adventurous experiences with their kids.”
Sandwiched neatly between the tourist hotspots of Greece and Montenegro, Albania is finally having its moment in the sun. After years spent closed off to the rest of the world under the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha, it is throwing off its former communist image and emerging as the new darling of the Balkans. Last year was Albania’s busiest year of tourism to date, with more than 10 million international visitors. However, while it was formerly the draw of backpackers and couples, it’s now growing in popularity with families and it’s easy to see why.
From the fairytale village of Theth in the Albanian Alps in the north to the picture-perfect islands of Ksamil in the south, it’s a playground for children and adults alike.
Up in the alps, known also as the Accursed Mountains, we breathed in great gulps of air so crisp I can still feel its icy edge. Designed for practicality to withstand the heavy winter snowfalls, the wooden pitched roofed cabins we stayed in felt like something from a storybook. At night we tucked our children under heavy wool blankets and revelled in their excitement the next morning as they pulled back the patterned red curtain to reveal snow-capped mountains winking in the sun.
Vlora Polia, who has been running the guesthouse Bujtina Polia in Theth for 15 years, says: “In the past, it used to be mostly single people or couples, lots of backpackers, visiting. But over the past few years, more families have started coming.”
Later that day we hiked to the Blue Eye lagoon, wondering aloud whether we were actually intruding on a film set as we got our first glance of the impossibly peacock-blue pool, before shrieking with delight as the deliciously cold water soaked our feet, still hot from the trek.
It is this unique mix of stunning natural beauty, combined with a rich and weaving historical influence of Illryrians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, to name but a few, that makes it so easy to keep everyone happy in Albania.
The ancient cities of Berat, Gjirokaster and Kruja are compact enough to explore in a day, providing castle ruins to clamber over and quirks such as an abandoned US Air Force jet in the grounds of Gjirokaster Castle.
Even Albania’s capital Tirana reflects the vibrant feeling of a country on the cusp of change. Many of its former grey communist buildings have been painted with huge murals as a result of a scheme by Prime Minister Edi Rama, who was an artist. There are plenty of green spaces, and families should head up Dajti Mountain by cable car for views of the city and the most scenic play park we’ve ever visited.
Active teens searching for TikTok-worthy content will be spoilt for choice given the host of adrenaline-filled activities on offer, from paddle-boarding on Lake Shkoder to white-water rafting in Osumi canyon and jet skiing off the beaches of the riviera.
For younger visitors, every day feels like an adventure. From exploring the hidden corners of the Unesco world heritage site of Butrint, ancient ruins enclosed by forest and marshland, to a boat trip on Komani Lake surrounded by towering grey mountains on either side. There’s even the opportunity to make their own mask at the Venice Mask Factory in Shkoder, the world’s largest producer of masks for the annual Venice Carnival.
As for the parents, we get to enjoy the smug feeling of nailing our family holiday for a fraction of the cost of other more popular rivals along the riviera.
If a fly-and-flop holiday is more your thing, there are plenty of all-inclusive beach resorts along the coast from Saranda to Ksamil. The Ionian Sea is warm and safe to swim in and the beachfront restaurants serve freshly caught sea bass cooked over hot coals and huge bowls of steaming mussels.
Plus, there are so many little details which make family travel easier. From family rooms, suitable for up to five people, which are the norm in most hotels, to the communal-style dining in restaurants which encourages children to try new things and leads to less waste.
In scenes that reminded me of Spain and Italy, families eat out together at any time. We never experienced a single place where we felt unwelcome. In Mrizi i Zanave, one of the country’s top restaurants and a favourite of singer Dua Lipa when she’s visiting the country, different generations gather around the tables covered in stiff white cloths and sparkling wine glasses to talk, laugh and sing happy birthday to one another.
“Everyone is welcome in our restaurant,” owner Altin Prenga says as dishes of flaky byrek pastry and djathe cheese are placed before us. “Children are just as much a part of our community as everyone else. For me, nothing makes me prouder than looking around the restaurant and seeing it filled with local families.”
It’s the same story at vineyard Kantina Mani, just outside Shkoder - children play with a puppy and sit with chickens on their knees, as their parents enjoy a tour. Owner Fatjon Mani, whose own daughter is running around too, tells us: “No one in Albania will ever tell you to leave the kids at home. It doesn’t make sense to us. There is nowhere here that you couldn’t take your children.”
As we prepare to leave for our flight home, my 3-year-old son tells our host we’re sad to be leaving. “Next time you come back, you come to see me,” he tells him. “I will remember you.” And something tells me he will.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Tirana International Airport Nen - Albania’s only international airport - with one stopover in Dubai, flying with Emirates.
DETAILS
The 'Southern Link' will directly connect Aotearoa to Argentina by year's end.