Colonial Williamsburg is just the place to get a historical fix. Photo / Getty Images
Colonial Williamsburg is just the place to get a historical fix. Photo / Getty Images
Not all US states are made equal and some, like Virginia, are superb destinations. They just don’t get enough air-time, writes Julia D’Orazio.
Virginia isn’t really at the top of many people’s minds when plotting a trip to the US, but it should be. The mid-Atlantic seaboard statehas a lot to wow visitors, from 18th-century sites in the “Historic Triangle” to being the heart of America’s most extensive trail network, crab cakes galore and an island populated with wild ponies.
After drinking like a president and slurping down plump oysters, I’m here to vouch for Virginia’s inclusion on your US itinerary with these must-dos.
An aerial view over Virginia’s capital, Richmond. Photo / Getty Images
I’ll admit – I am a sucker for all things of a bygone era, and Colonial Williamsburg is just the place to get a historical fix without glancing through glass. Forming part of Virginia’s Historic Triangle, the 18th-century city is the largest outdoor living museum in the country, 50 minutes southeast of Virginia’s capital, Richmond.
It is full of heritage buildings that Presidents George Washington and Thomas Jefferson once moseyed around. Faithfully reproduced taverns frequented by some of America’s Founding Fathers still serve their preferred tipple. At The King’s Arms, I sipped on Jefferson’s favourite champagne cocktail while devouring a rich Hunter’s game pie filled with braised venison, rabbit and duck in fine port wine topped with flaky pastry.
Virginia's Historic Triangle boasts Colonial Williamsburg, the largest outdoor living museum in the US. Photo / Julia D’Orazio
Apart from becoming acquainted with 18th-century flavours, there is much to see and do in the beautifully restored settlement, including 89 original buildings. Hear from historical figures such as “Martha Washington” discuss her life as the first First Lady. Walk into timely cottages to see workers in centuries-old fashion demonstrating trades of yesteryear. Make sure to stick around for the Fifes and Drums march for a throwback soundtrack.
Immerse yourself in 18th-century history and enjoy drinks at taverns once frequented by Founding Fathers. Photo / Julia D’Orazio
Go where the wild ponies roam
Virginia’s Chincoteague Island is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the mainland, with skyscrapers and gridlock traffic a mythical concept. Instead, the Eastern Shore fishing village is the gateway to wilderness adventures, with Assateague Island and Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge (CNWR) only moments away. The latter includes over 5000 hectares of pristine beaches, marsh and maritime forests.
Besides migratory birds, the refuge is famous for its wild ponies. The best way to capture their rugged beauty and tangled manes is on a full-day kayaking tour with Burnham Guides. The tour journeys through Chincoteague’s snaking mangroves to glimpse the region’s weathered landscapes and a closer look at the nomadic stallions. Another way to enjoy CNWR is cycling along flat terrains to see apocalyptic scenes of beaches scattered with large dead trees.
I went from extremes with an out-of-this-world experience at Nasa’s Wallops Flight Facility, a rocket-launching pad. For something more homely, try Virginian-style crab cakes at The Pearl, a casual waterside restaurant along the Assateague Channel. The thick patties are loaded with juicy blue crab meat sourced from Chesapeake Bay and are a popular dish throughout the state.
Chincoteague Island offers a serene escape with wild ponies at the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Photo / Julia D’Orazio
Embark on the walk of a lifetime
The world’s longest hiking-only footpath, the Appalachian Trail, extends roughly 3524km and traverses 14 states, including multiple national parks. Virginia is home to one-quarter (875km) of the gruelling track.
Even though John Denver swoons about West Virginia being a Mountain Mama in the roadtrip classic Take Me Home, Country Roads, the same can be said about its neighbouring state. The trail traverses the Blue Ridge Mountains and Shenandoah National Park. While I wish I had the glutes of gods to complete the entire Virginia portion, I was content to complete a few day walks in both locations.
Blue Ridge Mountain’s city, Roanoke, is a convenient stepping stone to conquer what’s been dubbed “Virginia’s Triple Crown” – trails McAfee Knob, Dragons Tooth and Tinker Cliffs. These day hikes along the Appalachian Trail feature gnarly rock formations and superb mountain and forest views.
Meanwhile, Shenandoah National Park is another stellar place to strap on hiking boots. Located less than two hours’ drive from Washington, DC, the park extends over 8000 hectares and is sprinkled with forests, waterfalls and impressive rock formations. I was tight on time, so I completed the Hawksbill Loop trail. The moderate 4.6km trail takes roughly two hours to complete and rewards handsomely with peak panoramas.
Hot tip: See Virginia burst with autumn colours. The state experiences a lengthy fall season and is one of the best places in the country to see changing foilage throughout its varied landscapes.
Enjoy Virginia's burst of autumn colours in Shenandoah National Park. Photo / Getty Images
Visit the world’s oldest ham
Bear with me on this one – I didn’t plan my trip to Virginia to learn more about deli meat, but it turns out it’s quite the experience and future conversation starter.
Smithfield is Virginia’s ham-filled capital, less than a two-hour drive southeast of Richmond. It is home to the state’s revered 1600s cured ham recipe, as old as the town itself. To understand the town, which is essentially built on pork and peanuts, visit the Isle of Wight County Museum.
Besides a history lesson, glimpse what is believed to be the world’s oldest ham. It dates back to 1902 and is kept in an air-controlled glass cabinet with its designated 24/7 “Ham Cam”. Want to know the ham’s thoughts? The wrinkled leg even has its own ‘X’ account.
Discover the history of Smithfield's ham-filled capital at the Isle of Wight County Museum, where you can see what is believed to be the world's oldest ham, dating back to 1902. Photo / Julia D’Orazio
Checklist
VIRGINIA
GETTING THERE
Air NZ flies from Auckland via San Francisco in 12 hours. An onward flight with United Airlines from San Francisco to Washington DC takes about five hours.
