Wheels across Europe

By ANNA CHALMERS

Every year New Zealanders living in London can be seen loading up VW Kombi vans and heading off to experience the "classic European holiday".

The trip usually starts in the north of France, after crossing the channel from Dover in England to Calais, driving down through France, over the Pyrenees into Spain, west into Portugal and then across the Continent to Italy and often beyond.

There are numerous reasons young New Zealanders take this rite of passage - as well as seeing all the fantastic sights and tasting the delights of Europe's food and wine, it's relatively inexpensive. The Kombi is transport and accommodation all in one, cutting down significantly on costs.

There is just one problem. As the Kombis become "antique", these trips are usually punctuated with numerous roadside sessions as the van sits idle, in no hurry to start, while you swelter in the hot sun.

But do not let this deter you. Travelling Europe in your own vehicle means no public transport schedules to cramp your style, the ability to explore the quaint, off-the-beaten-track villages where the "real" locals live, freedom to not have to book accommodation in advance - you can nearly always get a campsite and can load your vehicle with cheap, fantastic regional wines and souvenirs.

With these bonuses in mind, here are some suggestions for planning the great Europe road adventure.

How hard can it be?:


The key to a pleasurable driving experience is a good navigator and a driver with a cool head. If you do not feel relaxed driving around New Zealand's cities and highways, then you probably will not enjoy driving around Europe.

As co-pilot to the driver, you need to read (and understand) maps, look out for turn-offs - and keep the music playing.

Luckily I had just that on my three-month European adventure. Although we had several companions along the way, I shared the driving with Anna, a fellow New Zealander with whom I happened to share the same name and job in London.

Our most dramatic road moment, not surprisingly, was just moments after picking up the car from Bordeaux airport in France. One of us, who shall remain nameless, drove the wrong way around the first roundabout we encountered.

Travelling between destinations is relatively easy due to the well-maintained, multi-lane highways, which are usually well signposted.

Language is not a big problem once a few essential terms are mastered and driving on the other side of the road was far easier than anticipated - roundabouts notwithstanding.

The biggest challenge is in the cities, where traffic can be chaotic and elaborate one-way systems and narrow, cobbled alleyways can make finding your destination hard work. It can be easier to leave the vehicle on the outskirts of town or in a camping ground and use public transport. This also avoids paying for costly parking.

What to drive:


If the roads of Europe are calling and you want something more reliable than an ancient van, consider one of the buy-sell deals offered by Renault, Peugeot and Citroen.

The French Government allows French car-makers to lease new vehicles to non-European Union residents, tax-free. Strictly speaking you "buy" the car and the company then "buys" it back from you on your return. The longer you lease the car, the cheaper it gets.

Last (northern) summer, three months with a brand new Renault Scenic, which comfortably seats a family of five and included full insurance, cost around $3500, averaging $39 a day. There are smaller models, such as the Renault Clio, which cost significantly less.

We travelled through eight countries, covering more than 13,000km. Even with the cost of fuel, it was much cheaper, faster (and more comfortable) than travelling by train or bus.

If you are travelling for less than three weeks, then renting a car is probably a better option, but shop around as there are differences in rental rates and prices do increase during holiday breaks.

Buying a second-hand car, such as the classic Kombi, is another option, but there are definite risks.

If it is unreliable, it may end up costing a lot more than you bargained for once garage bills are paid. You also need to be sure of getting a good resale price.

This is perhaps a better option when you are not covering big distances, but want the freedom and gear-carrying advantages of a car.

Don't forget to factor in the price of comprehensive insurance - essential when travelling in Europe.

Euro-crash:


Whatever option you choose, make sure you are fully insured. The car lease deals and most rental companies offer fully comprehensive insurance, but read the fine print of any agreement before you sign.

Inevitably, when travelling for long periods in foreign countries (with dubious driving practices) an incident of some sort is likely.

If you are in an accident, make sure you get a copy of the police report for insurance purposes.

While our only collision was with a street lamp in an Italian camping ground, the possibility of a mishap involving another vehicle was very real. A Wellington couple travelling in Italy came across a heated scene between a car-driver and a cyclist. The angry driver speedily backed into the couple's car, denting the front. He then fled the scene. Had they not got a police incident report, it is likely insurance would not have covered the cost.

For whom the road tolls:


Once you have your wheels, fuel and road tolls are the next biggest cost. When it comes to selecting a car, it is definitely worth considering getting a diesel model. With the exception of Britain, it is much cheaper to fill a car with diesel, especially if you're covering a large distance. Diesel is readily available at most fuel stations.

When it comes to paying tolls, you have a little more choice. Throughout Spain, France and Italy toll roads prevail on the major routes. They usually have at least three lanes on each side and you can cover a lot of distance very quickly as speed limits are higher, averaging 130km in fine weather (traffic officers are virtually non-existent).

The toll roads are not cheap. A 200km stretch of toll road in France costs around $15. If time is not an issue, you can frequently avoid the toll route. There is usually a non-toll equivalent covering virtually the same route, but trucks often travel on these roads, so passing can be difficult. Luckily it is relatively easy to swap from the toll version to the non-toll, where time and scenery call for it.

When to travel:


You can save a lot of money by not travelling in July and August, the high season. While the temperatures are at their hottest, accommodation is hard to come by and in many instances rates double.

The allure of many of the sights also fades as you struggle to share that gorgeous strip of the Italian coast with hundreds of other holidaymakers - and their rubbish.

It's far better to travel in April, May and June, or September and October, when campsites and many hotels charge either mid or low-season rates. It is also far more pleasant not having your tent within inches of the neighbours.

If you are planning on camping, keep in mind that April and October can be chilly. France is not recommended for tenting without lots of warm gear at this time of year.

Going with the currency:


It is certainly a lot easier travelling central Europe with just one currency.

Gone are the days of piles of leftover coins and only just mastering one currency when it's time to move on to the next. With the euro, you need worry only about one set of coins and notes for all of central Europe - and the euro is fairly easy to convert to the New Zealand dollar. This makes it much easier for a budget traveller to stick to a daily allowance.

It is also fascinating to compare prices between countries. The same bread stick can vary wildly in price across the Continent.

There has been a huge uproar among many Europeans over price increases since the introduction of the euro. These hikes are particularly apparent in Italy where it cost us more to eat, camp and fill the car with fuel than in France, Spain or Portugal.

Mind your language:


If you're lucky, you may have School Certificate French, but that is not going to get you far.

While travelling in Spain, on more than one occasion I thrust my Spanish phrase book at the equally frustrated hotel owner after hand signals had been exhausted.

You will find it a lot easier if you master a few key phrases before arriving in a country. I've found people are always more willing to help and to speak English (if they can) when greeted in their own language and then asked, preferably in their language, if they speak English. A handy addition to any car glove box is a European phrasebook covering the basics of most major European languages.



Case notes:

Car leasing:


Renault Eurodrive, who also deal with Citroen, enquiries (09) 525 8808. A Renault Clio costs just under $33 a day for 45 days and less than $27 a day for 90 days.


Peugeot EuroLease (09) 526 8928. If you book an Earlybird special before March 31, a Peugeot 106 costs just under $33 a day for 45 days and less than $26 a day for 90 days.


Where to start:


There are many internet sites that can help you plan details of your trip, including cost of tolls, fuel, camping information and road signs in different languages.

The Automobile Association's route planner allows you to plan your trip without using toll roads. It lists petrol and diesel prices across Europe.

www.renaulteurodrive.co.nz
www.peugeoteurolease.co.nz
www.autoroutes.fr
www.autostrade.it
www.aseta.es
www.theaa.com
www.drivingabroad.co.uk