NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

What to eat in the Chatham Islands: A seafood lover’s guide

By Isobel Marriner
NZ Herald·
19 May, 2025 10:22 PM6 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Guest chef Norka Mella Munoz was part of a luxury culinary experience onboard Ponant’s Le Lapérouse. Photo / Bevin Marriner

Guest chef Norka Mella Munoz was part of a luxury culinary experience onboard Ponant’s Le Lapérouse. Photo / Bevin Marriner

A seafood lover’s dream, this luxury cruise holiday through the Chatham Islands offers blue cod, pāua fritters, and a glimpse into island life, writes Isobel Marriner

My first taste of blue cod was in Stewart Island, from the Kai Kart in Oban. It was a revelation – fresh, tasty, juicy; wrapped in crisp hot batter. Rakiura is an amazing place for so many reasons, but that feed was one of the highlights. So much more delicious than the snapper and tarakihi I was used to in Auckland.

So, pre a luxurious cruise of some of the South’s best destinations, there was no way that chance was going by. Dunedin was putting on an exceptionally pleasant day, so straight up to the Octagon for dinner. Dunners has it sussed here, with its range of cafes and pubs, all with open-air seating, so you can have a quick wine or beer and get your bearings, then stroll around, menu-surfing till you find what you want.

READ MORE: What to do in the Chatham Islands

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Irish pub The Craic had me at hello, blue cod. Pan-fried and fresh with chunky chips and a tasty tartare. In fact, it had me so bad that I went back and had exactly the same for lunch the next day, before heading to the wharf to board our beautiful home away from home for a week, Ponant’s Le Laperouse. And we were off to the Chatham Islands, where the best blue cod comes from (so they say...)

Owenga, on the main island, Rekohu, was our first landing. Bouncing over the waves it was hard not to think of the bounty that lay beneath. As well as cod, the Chathams are renowned for their big crayfish, kina and pāua. But they are also a favourite meeting place for great white sharks, so best to concentrate on not falling overboard. After a bit of a paddle when exiting the Zodiac, I was hiking through farmland with gritty, damp feet.

 Rugged landscapes, wild sheep, and the freshest seafood — this cruise through the Chathams is a feast for the senses. Photo / Bevin Marriner
Rugged landscapes, wild sheep, and the freshest seafood — this cruise through the Chathams is a feast for the senses. Photo / Bevin Marriner

Crayfish season was, sadly, all but finished, and the paddocks were full of pots. The treescape was a mix of megaherbs, like the famous Chatham Island forget-me-nots and coastal trees sculpted by the wind; larger trees on the islands include the karaka, which was brought to the Chathams by the Moriori, who called it kopi. They ate the flesh of the berries and used the (poisonous) kernels to make a kind of flour.

A couple of, thankfully friendly, four-legged locals followed us up to a gorgeous windswept beach when I saw something that I, at least, had never seen before. Amid the clumps of seaweed were pāua shells, hundreds of them, polished on both sides. I’ve still not been able to ascertain whether this “phenomenon” is caused by natural abrasion by the sea, or a lack of barnacles, or indeed if it is a phenomenon. But I was pretty impressed.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Chatham Island. Photo / Getty Images
Chatham Island. Photo / Getty Images

Another local, two-legged this time, stopped to chat and just casually dropped in that at low tide off the rocks here there were pools the kids fished in that were “absolutely loaded” with crays, cod and pāua. “I guess we take it for granted...”

Our second landing at the Chathams was on Pitt Island/Rangiauria. Our guide was an off-islander farmer who went there for work and fell in love with the place, and with a local. There was a lot of pride evident when she told us that her (primary school-age) children would never starve; they could cook, garden, fish, hunt and forage. As well as being able to mend their own vehicles.

This useless mainlander trudged on with a dodgy hip past more megaherbs — one of the more interesting being the Chathams’ giant puha. (While the Chathams have the “ordinary” puha, there’s also a much bigger version, though not actually of the same genus. But they called it puha, so you might expect it was similarly eaten.) Once in danger of being eradicated by the wild sheep and pigs that inhabit the islands, which obviously found it delicious, this coastal plant is now making a big comeback. Wild pork and giant puha. Yum.

Norka Mella Munoz's Paua Tataki served on board Ponant's Le Laperouse. Photo / Bevin Marriner
Norka Mella Munoz's Paua Tataki served on board Ponant's Le Laperouse. Photo / Bevin Marriner

Wild sheep? The only experience I have had close to that was on the Marquesas, where, as part of a mainly delicious feast, where I fell in love with octopus, they also cooked us some feral goat, a great favourite there. No. Sorry. Eau des armpit.

The wild sheep hunted on Pitt, however, are descended from Saxon merinos taken to the islands in the 1800s. And merino meat is now trending as a delicious thing to eat, so I must put aside my prejudice.

The woolly Pitt Island sheep we got closest to, however, were in a paddock next to the island’s only accommodation, Flowerpot Bay Lodge. Feeling a tad cheaty, as we had only (hip, remember) attempted the “short” walk option, we were welcomed to this comfortable retreat with a scrumptious morning tea. Fritters made with the local paua were served on home-baked bread. A delicious slice accompanied by coffee on the deck, looking out to the private gardens and the sea.

Many visitors to the Chathams choose to spend at least a few days on Pitt Island, and the lodge is a gorgeous place, cosy on the inside, yet and wild on the outside — perched as it is on the corner of New Zealand’s easternmost outpost, the first place in the world to see the rising sun.

It has a storied history, occupying the site of the original homestead, settled all the way back in 1843. The lounge is lined with photos from the past and a vast selection of books containing all you need to know about the islands. What a remarkable place to stay.

 Chatham Island paua shells are naturally polished by the ocean, creating stunning iridescent treasures on the beaches. Photo / Bevin Marriner
Chatham Island paua shells are naturally polished by the ocean, creating stunning iridescent treasures on the beaches. Photo / Bevin Marriner

Back on the ship, the pāua feast continued, with guest chef Norka Mella Munoz of Wharekauhau Estate demonstrating her own recipe for fritters. Norka, on board as part of Ponant’s partnership with Relais & Chateaux, explained that she prefers to make hers without flour, for a lighter and tastier version.

Norka’s petite frame was later seen wielding an enormous mallet to yet more pāua into submission for a tataki that featured in a special epicurean feast with other New Zealand specialties such as gin-cured Ora King Salmon and venison.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The small taste of the magnificent larder that is the Chathams left me wanting much more, and I was excited to discover I could order “Chatham Blue”, snap-frozen and shipped directly from the islands — it’s every bit as nice as the fish I had in Dunedin. They do crayfish tails and pāua pies too... Hmmmm....

The writer was a guest of Ponant.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

An honest review of the Carnival Encounter cruise ship

09 Jul 07:03 AM
Travel

Why Rotterdam is so much more than the Netherlands’ second-largest city

09 Jul 06:00 AM
Travel

Stunning views, outdoor action - why South Island's resort capital is still global favourite

09 Jul 03:01 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

An honest review of the Carnival Encounter cruise ship

An honest review of the Carnival Encounter cruise ship

09 Jul 07:03 AM

Carnival Encounter recently transitioned from the P&O fleet. What has changed?

Why Rotterdam is so much more than the Netherlands’ second-largest city

Why Rotterdam is so much more than the Netherlands’ second-largest city

09 Jul 06:00 AM
Stunning views, outdoor action - why South Island's resort capital is still global favourite

Stunning views, outdoor action - why South Island's resort capital is still global favourite

09 Jul 03:01 AM
What happens to passengers who are refused entry to New Zealand

What happens to passengers who are refused entry to New Zealand

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP