A deep-fried Mars bar is an Edinburgh must-try. Photo / 123rf
Forget what you thought you knew about Scottish cuisine - even with deep-fried Mars bars on the menu, Edinburgh has reinvented itself as one of Europe’s most exciting gastronomic destinations, writes Kate Wickers.
Bonny Scotland, synonymous with bagpipes, whisky, castles, loch-dwelling monsters and food that’s high in calories, fats, sugar, and salt (I mean, whoever came up with the idea for a deep-fried Mars Bar?). In truth, it’s a country that’s been busy shrugging off its poor diet/bad food reputation since the early 2000s, with Edinburgh leading the way for well-tidy scan (that’s good food to you and me). Surrounded by bountiful seas and fertile lands, today it’s one of Europe’s most exciting gastronomic cities, with award-winning restaurants that celebrate Scottish produce, often with a healthy or modern twist. I arrive with a menu in my head of the food I want to enjoy: classics such as Scotch eggs; proper porridge; cranachan (stick with me, all will be revealed); and Cullen skink, a soup made with smoked haddock I sincerely hope is more delicious than it sounds.
The Edinburgh Larder on Blackfriars Street is considered the benchmark for excellence when it comes to breakfast cooked using local produce (the blackboard on the wall shows a map of their suppliers). If you haven’t booked, arrive before 10am to bag a seat next door in sister cafe, Little Larder, which operates a walk-in service with the same menu. I order roasted flat mushrooms, tattie scones (a Scottish staple, made with leftover mashed potato and flour), and poached egg. “Can I not tempt ye with some haggis?” the waiter wants to know.
Of all Scottish food, haggis is a sticking point for me. Traditionally a blend of boiled sheep’s offal, onions, oatmeal and suet stuffed into a sheep’s stomach, as a kid I have a distant memory of being made to eat it and crying (sorry, Scotland). I confess what’s on my mind. “Ah, haggis has come a long way, and ye haven’t tasted our haggis, have ye?” I agree to try both the traditional and veggie option (though I’m sure most die-hard Scotsmen would baulk at the very idea). Both have a peppery, nutty flavour, with the meaty version like a delicious crumbly sausage. Zero tears from me.
A stalwart on Edinburgh’s dining and drinking scene since the Victorian era, Cafe Royal is a classic pub, where tourists and locals alike feast on platters of Scottish rock oysters in cosy leather booths below stained-glass windows in the main bar or amid the splendour of its tucked-away oyster bar, the city’s oldest. It’s another speciality I’m after: a bowl of Cullen skink (named for the old fishing harbour of Cullen) with peat-smoked finnan haddie (cured haddock), poached gently in milk with potatoes and onion, which proves to be a tasty, warming tonic on this chilly day. Cranachan also stars on the menu; a moreish dessert made with raspberries, cream, oats, and whisky, originally eaten as a celebration after harvest, but now considered the king of Scottish puddings.
To feast on the finest Scottish salmon (fun fact: this was the first foreign food to gain France’s prestigious Label Rouge quality award), head to award-winning seafood restaurant Ondine, which has sustainable fishing at its heart (don’t miss a slab of their home-made treacle bread, either). Lookout, which sits atop Carlton Hill and has fantastic views of the city, is all about seasonally sensitive food, offering an inventive tasting menu of seven courses (in autumn, think venison loin with pumpkin, plum, honey and dandelion). For world cuisine, there are some interesting twists to be had, such as the bao buns filled with the best slow-cooked Highland cattle brisket at Lucky Yu.
Stockbridge’s Sunday market is the best in the city, where stalls selling partridge and new-season grouse rub shoulders with those offering salmon fished from Loch Duart and rainbow trout from the River Tay, and local botanical liqueur makers Aelder offer wee drams of wild spiced elderberry to passers-by. At lunchtime, opt for a takeaway seafood paella topped with juicy Scottish langoustines (the country’s most valuable shellfish export).
By now, I’m beginning to wish for a kitchen of my own, and realise that a perfect foodie day in Edinburgh could begin with popping into Stockbridge’s lovely independent bookstore, The Golden Hare, for recipe inspiration (Gary Maclean’s Scottish Kitchen would be a good start), before stocking up on market supplies and heading home to cook up a storm. I head instead to Scran & Scallie.
“Sit ye doon yer welcome” is the invitation at Edinburgh’s leading gastropub, Scran & Scallie (owned by Michelin-star endowed Scottish Chef Tom Kitchin), where I tuck into seared Orkney scallops with cauliflower and apple, followed by poached smoked haddock fishcakes. The price might be a bit above average pub grub (but this is not your average pub), and every mouthful is worth the few extra pounds spent.
The next day, I start with the breakfast of Scottish champions, a bowl of porridge made with ground oats at The Southern Cross Cafe, then stroll along buzzy, shop-lined Victoria Street (one of the most photographed streets in the city, with rainbow-coloured shopfronts). At I J Mellis, purveyors of farmhouse and artisan cheese for thirty years, I buy a taster plate of three: Auld Reekie from the Cairngorm mountains; an Isle of Mull cheddar; and a Lanark Blue - served with oatcakes. This Scottish produce-packed provisions store also does brisk trade in home-made small pies (the favourite snack of any Scottish football fan) and Scotch eggs (boiled eggs wrapped in sausage meat and coated in breadcrumbs), the taste of which stirs happy memories of my first trip to Scotland as a kid in the ‘90s. In the same decade (1995 to be exact), the first Mars Bar was tossed into a deep fryer in the Haven Chip Bar (now called The Carron Fish Bar) in Stonehaven on the northeast coast, and they’re now sold across the length and breadth of Scotland and used by the media perennially as an example of a poor Scottish diet. At around 1200 calories a pop, there’s no arguing that warm caramel and chocolate encased in crispy batter is not the healthiest of Scottish offerings. However, as a once-in-a-lifetime culinary adventure, there’s no denying that biting into one is a moment of pure indulgent fun, either.
The Scotsman Hotel
Historic hotel, housed in the former headquarters of the Scotsman newspaper, centrally located on North Bridge, with all major sights easily walkable. Double rooms start at NZ$384, based on two people sharing.
The Roseate
Set across two beautiful Victorian townhouses, this boutique hotel with private gardens is found at the gateway to the old town, the city’s most historic quarter. Double rooms start at NZ$360 (advance rate, room only).
Edinburgh has many fine Airbnb options, often located in historic buildings.
For more things to do in Scotland, see visitscotland.com.
And no, it's not Sydney, Melbourne or the east coast.