What it’s like visiting Palau in Micronesia

With rich marine life, cultural charm and new flight routes, Palau makes a strong case for your next island escape. Photo / Josh Burkinshaw

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Is Palau the most underrated island destination in the Pacific? The American couple I’m chatting with on a snorkelling day trip certainly think so. Between them, the avid scuba divers have done more than a thousand dives all over the world. They’re unanimous in their verdict: Palau offers the best scuba diving on the planet. Yesterday, they swam with hundreds of grey reef sharks and spotted squadrons of manta rays.

“It took us 30 hours to get to Palau from the US, but we’d do it again in a heartbeat,” says Carol, one half of the diving duo. “This place has to be seen to be believed.”

In great news for Kiwi and Aussie travellers, Palau is much easier to reach from our part of the world than it is from the US. In December, Qantas launched a new six-hour direct flight from Brisbane. Dubbed the Palau Paradise Express, it’s just the ticket for holidaymakers eager to discover a beautiful country that receives a fraction of the tourist numbers that visit Fiji, Bali and the Cook Islands get. Although international visitor numbers have surged from about 5000 in 2021 to more than 50,000 in 2024, it’s still a destination that is far from crowded. You’ll have no trouble snapping the perfect selfie on an idyllic, empty beach.

A place in the sun

You’d be forgiven for wondering where exactly Palau is on the map. In the western Pacific Ocean region of Micronesia, Palau’s 340 islands are located 1500km to the east of the Philippines and about 2000km north of Papua New Guinea.

With a population of 17,669 Palauans, the nation has been a republic since declaring its independence from the US in 1994. The currency remains the US dollar, and the zip code is a US address.

From jellyfish lakes to luxurious bungalows, Palau is Pacific paradise perfected. Photo / Josh Burkinshaw

Previously a destination embraced mostly by Asian tourists and dive fanatics, it can be reached by direct flights from Guam, Manila and Taipei, in addition to the new Qantas flight from Brisbane.

Deeply committed to eco-conscious principles and a vision for protecting the islands from the ravages of overtourism, the government of Palau is punching above its size in terms of sustainability. Every visitor to the country must take the Palau Pledge, written by the children of Palau. I’m more than happy to promise to “tread lightly, act kindly and explore mindfully”. The pledge is stamped in my passport upon arrival, a tangible souvenir and reminder of my responsibility to respect and protect the environment so that it can be enjoyed by generations to come.

Calling all water lovers

A dream destination for divers and snorkellers, Palau’s most glittering crown jewels lie beneath the surface of the emerald-green water. Teeming with rare and spectacular marine life, the archipelago has been called “an underwater Serengeti” and one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. In 2009, Palau established the world’s first shark sanctuary to protect one of the most misunderstood creatures of the sea. The zone, in which commercial shark fishing is banned, covers an area similar to the size of France.

The country’s shark sanctuary is the size of France. Photo / Palau Visitors Authority

Vibrant coral reefs, more than 1500 species of fish, lakes populated by non-stinging jellyfish and frequent encounters with sharks, sea turtles and dugongs are all part of a day’s adventure. Local operator Neco Marine offers a full-day or half-day snorkel excursion to the Rock Islands, a Unesco World Heritage site made up of hundreds of small, forested limestone islands, surrounded by blue lagoons. Don some fins and a mask to explore the underwater treasures, including Clam City, the home of enormous clam shells shaped by years of currents and tides. At the Milky Way, soft limestone mud in a turquoise lagoon is the perfect ingredient for a DIY spa experience.

The Rock Islands are a Unesco World Heritage Site.

More ways to see it all

For something completely different, Paddling Palau shares the history and culture of traditional-built Palauan sailboats with guests on a half-day tour. Local seamen explain the significance of the wooden boats that enabled generations of daring exploration.

One of the most jaw-dropping ways to enjoy the beauty of Palau’s blue zones is from above on a scenic flight. Normally too nervous to take helicopter rides or small-plane flights, I make an exception in Palau after I was captivated by images and videos I saw online.

Smile Air’s 40-minute sightseeing tour costs US$209 ($359) and is worth every cent. Pilot Kay Lan is a former New Zealand Police constable, now living and working in Palau. As we fly over the Rock Islands and stunning aquamarine water, Lan takes the time to point out shipwrecks, monuments and private islands. His enthusiasm is matched by his expertise, getting us down safely and with ease. If you’re going to splurge on one thing during a visit to Palau, make it a scenic flight.

Culture club

Palau’s culture, arts and history are as fascinating as its natural beauty. Take the time to visit a “bai”, a traditional village meeting house still used today. Crafted with intricate carvings, the bai proudly displays the islanders’ artistic skills and contains generations of history in visual art form.

I stop by Tebang Carving to purchase a small replica wooden bai, straight from the artisan’s woodworking shop. The only souvenir I take home from Palau, this authentic and memorable piece of woodwork is a bargain at US$75 ($128).

The humble Palauan people have a strong sense of community and respect for traditional values that is a joy to behold. At the local night markets, we clap and cheer as villagers perform local dances and songs. Wandering the food stalls, we’re encouraged to try Filipino street food, Japanese drinks, barbecued seafood and other tasty bites, all priced very reasonably.

Those interested in military history won’t want to miss a day trip with Sam’s Tours to Peleliu Island, the site of one of the deadliest battles of World War II. Intact tanks, sunken planes and shipwrecks are reminders that many thousands of American and Japanese troops lost their lives here in 1944. Memorials to the fallen soldiers ensure they are never forgotten.

At the newly renovated Peleliu WWII Memorial Museum, homage is paid to legendary Australian war photographer Damien Parer, who was killed by Japanese machine-gun fire while filming US Marines in action.

Resort to relaxation

There’s no shortage of accommodation options in Palau, from luxury resorts to budget hotel rooms. Four Seasons, Hotel Indigo and Sheraton are all in the process of building new resorts.

For the kind of overwater bungalow experience you might normally associate with the Maldives or Tahiti, book one of the new Water Bungalows or Lagoon View Pool Villas at Palau Pacific Resort (PPR), one of the ritziest accommodation options. On-site Elilai Spa by Mandara offers facials and body treatments using premium Elemis products.

Beach Front Suite Balcony Palau Pacific Resort. Photo / Palau Visitors Authority

It’s hard to beat an absolute beachfront location, and that’s what PPR has, with a private beach and reef that’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking. There are 165 rooms, suites and bungalows that are decorated with tropical decor, cane furniture and framed prints of local art.

Cove Resort Palau is another great choice, located close to the marina, from which snorkelling and diving trips depart. Owned by an Aussie hotelier, Cove Resort has a fabulous swimming pool, nautically themed rooms, plush beds and refreshing cold beer on tap.

WaterBungalow Palau Pacific Resort. Photo / Palau Visitors Authority

Details

See pristineparadisepalau.com; qantas.com.