The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a must do, writes Ben Francis. Photo / NZ Herald
From emerald lakes and active volcanoes to stories etched into the land, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a walk that tests you physically, rewards you visually and leaves a lasting impression long after your boots come off, writes Ben Francis.
If you have ever searched the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, chances are you’ve come across images of the Emerald Lakes, a vivid group of pools that glow green and turquoise against stark grey volcanic rock.
They look magical, almost unreal. But the truth is the photos don’t do them justice, and the Crossing itself, in all its scale and variety, is something everyone should experience at least once to truly understand the beauty and power of Aotearoa’s landscape.
The Emerald Lakes are just one highlight along the 20.4km journey, which attracts hundreds of thousands of walkers each year, most from overseas, but plenty of New Zealanders too.
For me, the decision to attempt the Crossing came with a fair amount of doubt. Two years on from a serious lower-leg injury, I still struggle with walking at times, and the thought of tackling New Zealand’s most famous day hike was daunting.
I was anxious, nervous and quietly unsure whether I’d make it to the end. In reality, while it was far from an easy stroll, it was more achievable than I had anticipated.
Perhaps fear was a motivator, but with steady pacing, regular snacks, plenty of water and comfortable footwear, the Crossing is manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.
What makes the walk so special isn’t just the challenge, it’s the constant sense of moving through different worlds. From open tussock to volcanic desert, craters to lakes, the landscape shifts beneath your feet.
There was also a deeper sense of connection this time, coming just weeks after a massive blaze tore through Tongariro National Park. The fire, which began on November 8, burned through more than 3000 ha in nearly three days, prompting a rāhui and temporary closure of the area.
Although it was lifted nine days later, another fire broke out a month on, again restricting access. Walking through the park not long after was both humbling and confronting.
The damage is visible from State Highway 47 and along the drive to the start of the Crossing, blackened earth, scorched vegetation and the slow signs of recovery.
Seeing rabbits hopping across burnt ground and birds foraging among the ash was surreal, a stark reminder of how fragile even the most ancient landscapes can be.
For my fiancée, the experience carried even more meaning. She is from Taupō, and Tongariro is her maunga.
Walking across the land, hearing its stories, and seeing both its scars and beauty made the journey deeply personal.
The day began early at the Adrift Tongariro headquarters in Waimarino, where we met the guides, collected packed lunches and had our gear checked.
The process is thorough, and for good reason. Some walkers arrive underprepared, with minimal water or inadequate clothing, a risky move in an alpine environment known for sudden weather changes.
We were the only Kiwis in our group of 20, with the rest hailing from places like the US, England and Sweden. Our local status was quickly revealed when I showed up wearing shorts on a cold, wet morning.
One of our guides was Kenny, who has worked with Adrift for 12 years and was previously a Tiaki Ranger. Tongariro is his maunga too, and he had plenty of stories about it, from wild weather, daring rescues, and life spent on the Crossing.
After signing in, a 15-minute van ride takes you toward the trailhead, passing more of the fire damage along a gravel road flanked by burnt land; a sobering taster of what lies ahead.
At the entrance, we’re greeted by Te Ririo, a 4m-tall pou whenua that stands as a guardian for those undertaking the Crossing.
From here, at 1120m above sea level, the scale of the landscape becomes unignorable. The hills loom large and the clouds feel close enough to touch.
The track begins gently, winding through grassland and alongside streams toward Soda Springs, a small waterfall tumbling down the Mangatepopo Valley.
It’s an inviting start, easing walkers into the journey before the real work begins. That comes with the Devil’s Staircase, a steep 200m climb that gains elevation quickly and takes around an hour.
The name sounds intimidating, and while it’s undoubtedly challenging, it’s simply the first serious test of the day rather than something to fear. I feel a sense of accomplishment getting through this stage, which provides a boost of motivation to complete the rest of the track.
The reward is the South Crater, a wide, flat expanse surrounded by towering mountains.
On clear days, Mt Taranaki can be seen in the distance, linked to Tongariro through Māori legend. In the story, Taranaki loved Pihanga, a mountain within the National Park, but she chose Tongariro. After losing their battle, Taranaki fled west, his tears forming the Whanganui River.
From the edge of the crater, walkers can get close to Mount Ngauruhoe before tackling the next ascent, a steep, exposed climb to Red Crater, the highest point of the Crossing.
Here, you notice the wind picks up and the temperature drops and just when you think you’re near the top, another short climb appears. But reaching the 1886m summit makes every step worthwhile.
Standing there feels like being on top of the world, rewarded with the first glimpse of the Emerald Lakes far below, looking down, while you get a good glimpse at the Red Crater, the still-active volcanic vent known for its rusty red, iron-oxidised scoria.
It’s a moment that captures why people travel from every corner of the globe to the Central Plateau. The view is vast, raw and unforgettable, something no photograph can capture. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air, a reminder that this is a living, breathing landscape.
The walk down to the lakes is tough, with a steep descent on loose scoria; at times, it’s like you are on ice skates, but simple foot placement techniques can save you from falling on your backside.
After a few wobbles and close shaves, I make it to the bottom; a perfect spot to sit back, eat lunch and catch your breath.
From there, the Crossing continues through the Central Crater toward Blue Lake, a stretch that feels otherworldly.
If you’ve ever wondered what walking on Mars might be like, this is as close as it gets, a fitting final reminder that the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is not just a walk, but an experience unlike any other.
Then come the kilometres of steady downhill toward Ketetahi, with sweeping views across to Lake Rotoaira.
The final stretch winds through forest, following a gentle stream before the car park comes into view, a van waiting to collect tired but satisfied walkers.
By then, legs are heavy, shoulders ache, and exhaustion takes over, but it’s matched by a deep sense of achievement.
You’ve crossed volcanic craters, climbed active mountains and walked through one of the most dramatic landscapes in the country.
Back at the motel by 6pm, there’s little energy left for anything more than a burger and chips from one of the few places open in Waimarino before collapsing into a comfy bed by 8pm at The Alpine Chalets for the best sleep of my life.
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It’s easy to see the Tongariro Alpine Crossing as something reserved for tourists, but it’s also a must-do for those who call Aotearoa home, who want a chance to reconnect with the land.
The Crossing reminds you how powerful and fragile our environment is, how deeply connected it is to Māori history, and how fortunate we are to have access to places like this.
It’s also an opportunity for simplicity, to spend a day focusing on just putting one foot in front of the other and appreciating the world around you.
Even better, you don’t need to be a super fit hiker to tick off this great walk. All you need is preparation, patience and a willingness to be challenged.
In return, you get perspective, pride, and a reminder that we do indeed have some of the most beautiful landscapes in our backyard.
Adrift Tongariro | adriftnz.co.nz
Premium tours of the Tongariro Crossing start at $425 per person and include transport to the start and end of the walk and boot and clothing hire up to $60, with optional lunch for $55.
New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Visit Ruapehu.
Ben Francis is an Auckland-based reporter for the New Zealand Herald who covers breaking sports news.