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Home / Travel

Weekender: Marlborough's vintage flyers (+photos)

By Sue Farley
NZ Herald·
12 Nov, 2007 04:00 PM4 mins to read

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Marlborough's wine region is home to an intriguing collection of WWI planes. Photos / Supplied

Marlborough's wine region is home to an intriguing collection of WWI planes. Photos / Supplied

KEY POINTS:

Although there is still debate about who brought the Red Baron down out of the skies above the River Somme in World War I, one thing is certain: it was a bad day for the Baron.

Stories tell of the dogfight beforehand, how the Canadians supposedly dodged around and fired at him from the left, while the Australian ground troops may have slipped one in from the right as he flew low to the ground. Or was it the other way round? With no video cameras to record these events, they remain unexplained.

At the shiny new Aviation Heritage Centre at Omaka, beneath the Wither Hills just out of Blenheim, this fateful day has been brought to life.

Whether the Australians got him or not doesn't really matter; but the fact that they had a huge amount of fun stripping the insignia from the infamous crashed plane brings a lighter, more human element to the story.

This, and many other similarly captivating scenes, are depicted in life-like settings in the Knights of the Sky exhibition at the centre.

This fantastic collection is considered one of the biggest and best collections of World War I planes in the world. It has original and replica aircraft, most of which still fly, displayed in sets put together by Weta Workshops in Wellington.

Among others, the airframe of a Bristol F2.b fighter, an original De Havilland DH4, a swallow-like Etrich Taube and a Morane-Saulinier Type BB are all displayed, enhanced by multiscreen footage, theatre-style lighting and authentic sets.

It's a fascinating place to visit, even for those, like myself, who don't know their Fokkers from their Sopworths or their triplanes from their bombers.

The aviation centre is a useful addition to the Marlborough scene which tourists usually think of in terms of its excellent wines.

But if you want to enjoy aviation and wine then the perfect place to stay is Straw Lodge, tucked down a little farm road just out of Renwick, close to the heritage centre and with a definite vineyard feel to it.

Straw Lodge stands up to its name with three nicely appointed units built in traditional straw-bale construction, covered with adobe.

Overlooking the orderly rows of vines, the units face out to the layered greys of the Richmond Ranges in the distance.

Hosts Nettie and Jane provide a fabulous welcome. The platter and wine tasting on arrival is a delectable way to start your visit.

Breakfast is served at the al fresco vine-shaded table each morning and evenings are best enjoyed with a glass of their own Churton label, sipped under moonlight in the outdoor spa, which also overlooks the vineyard.

You can choose to cook for yourself as the units are fully self-catering, or you can opt for a B&B style and take the opportunity to eat at one of Blenheim's memorable restaurants like Rocco's, Bellaficco or Herzog's.

All are worth trying, from Rocco's Italian-Kiwi cuisine where traditional fare like spaghetti lines up beside fresh crayfish, to Bellaficco's abundant take on local foods like venison or beef, or Herzog's legendary degustation experience which can take a weekend in itself (they're not open in mid-winter though).

You can't visit Marlborough without trying a few wineries. If you're serious about tastings, then places like Cloudy Bay and Fromm-La Strada provide a professional tasting experience without the clatter of a busy restaurant.

Others such as Highfield Estate, Hunters, Wairau River and Allan Scott offer a chance to taste some very nice wine and also enjoy a pleasant lunch. But no matter where you spend time around Blenheim there will be days when the sky drones with the sound of old aircraft.

Omaka airfield, aside from being home to the aviation centre, is also the base for a busy flying fraternity.

Every second year, alternating with Wings Over Wanaka, Omaka hosts an international air show where its square airfield, the only one left in the country, rings to the noise of classic planes sweeping, rolling and dodging their way through the clear Marlborough skies.

Now rivalling the Wanaka show in popularity, this three-day event draws people from around the world; the next one will be held Easter 2009.

The demise of the Red Baron is only one story told on the dry stony plains of the Wairau Valley.

But it's definitely one worth toasting ... in sauvignon blanc of course.

WHAT TO DO

The Aviation Heritage Centre is in Aerodrome Rd, off New Renwick Rd, Blenheim. It is open daily 10am-4pm. Entry is adults $18, kids $7, family concessions available. Phone (03) 579 1305 or visit omaka.org.nz.

WHERE TO STAY

Straw Lodge is at 17 Fareham Lane, Renwick. Phone (03) 572 9767 or visit strawlodge.co.nz.

* The next Omaka Air Show is at Easter 2009.

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