Yet almost all the tourists who venture south from Ushuaia to Antarctica deem it worthwhile: where else are you likely to see an iceberg the size of Heathrow's Terminal 5 drift by, and then land on an island teeming with millions of penguins?
The seas and shores of the region comprise one of the most prolific parts of the planet for wildlife, particularly birds: albatrosses, petrels, fulmars, shearwaters and prions are numerous, especially in the sub-Antarctic islands.
About 50 vessels are licensed to operate in Antarctic waters, ranging from small expedition craft, with a few dozen passengers, to larger cruise ships carrying many hundreds.
Shore landings are made using rigid inflatable boats ("ribs"). The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators specifies that no more than 100 passengers may go ashore at a time, which can prove frustrating if you are on a larger vessel - though these tend to be cheaper.
A basic 10-day trip from Ushuaia costs about NZ$7900, including all meals. To this you need to add the cost of your airfare to Ushuaia. Almost all visits are made between November and March.
Unlike cruises in the far north, which routinely sail well inside the Arctic Circle, very few expeditions venture as far as the Antarctic Circle.
Typically, it takes two days to cross from Ushuaia to the Antarctic peninsula, the arm of land that curls up towards the southern tip of South America - a trip of about 1125 kilometres.
Given the uncertainties of weather, you should not set your heart on setting foot on the Antarctic mainland. The broadest definition of Antarctica includes sub-Antarctic isles such as South Georgia, and many Antarctic islands including the South Orkneys and the South Shetlands.
IF YOU GO
Discover the World and Journey Latin America offer a range of Antarctic options.
- INDEPENDENT
