All the while, as we paddled, I towed my trolling line, hoping to pick up a fish - optimistically I'd packed lemons, garlic and tin foil, just in case I got lucky.
Rounding the bend, the final little leg, we landed at Waitawa Bay campground, a sweet little cove that consists of a decent stretch of springy grass for pitching tents, a cooking shelter, running water (boil for three minutes before drinking) and a toilet. Everything you need, nothing more, nothing less and just $4-$6 a night for million-dollar views.
With dusk not far from falling, the kahawai breathed a sigh of relief as we made camp: they'll live another day. We enjoyed a pre-dinner swim, watching the sun settle behind the hills and Kawakawa Bay glowing rosily next door.
Back on land, warm and dry (bar the generous sheen of bug spray) Nic presented us with sirloin steak, two impressive salads, artisan bread, even a glass of wine, plus carrot cake for pudding.
When you're in the wild, anything tastes good, but the sort of food Nic whips up would've impressed diners on Ponsonby Rd. The food, the company and the soundtrack of night birds calling to one another, it really was hard to top.
Having kayaked all over the world, Nic reckons the paddling in New Zealand is as good as you'll find anywhere. "Te Ara Moana Trail is a magnificent asset for the Auckland region, it's safe, easy and accessible for people of all abilities. And the great thing about kayaking is the amount of gear you can take. We've brought a lot of stuff you'd never take tramping and it couldn't have been easier. And it's not like you can get here by car."
"It's going to get harder to purchase this kind of land, to maintain the 'New Zealand lifestyle' people expect right on the city fringes ... and here it is.
"We're so fortunate to have a council that's had the foresight to invest in an area like this - they've gone and done something really special."
The next morning, wanting to postpone our departure, we took a pre-breakfast stroll to the top of the hill to where the pa would've been, and the views were outstanding, the water a smooth sheet of glass reflecting Waiheke and Coromandel back to us.
But eventually it was time to return to civilisation and we paddled the short distance to Kawakawa Bay.
The beachfront dairy was a welcome blue beacon, the Tip Top sign insisting icecream was the way to round this trip off.
As for the fishing, I'm sad to say I didn't catch anything, apart from the kayaking bug - and I'll continue to paddle with lemons and garlic, just in case I get lucky.
Need to know
Te Ara Moana Trail: regionalparks.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz
Also known as the Sea Going Pathway, this wonderful 51km waterway can be enjoyed for a single day or over five nights. Comparable to Abel Tasman and so close to Auckland.
Auckland Sea Kayaks: aucklandseakayaks.co.nz
Hire the gear from Nic, from boats to head torches, or take a guided tour, which rather simplifies things. Dry hire or the works, they accommodate all needs.
Waitawa Regional Park Public Open Days
Saturday and Sunday, March 8 and 9, 8.30am-6pm
Mataitai Bay (approximately 53km from central Auckland, 13 km east of Clevedon, on Clevedon-Kawakawa Rd).
Purchased in 2004, it is the first regional park to open since Auckland Council was established. Visitors can walk, swim, kayak, mountain bike, horse ride and fish at the park. Restoration work has already started on regenerating native bush and wetland areas and tackling weeds. Celebrate the opening with disc golf, kite flying, pony rides and guided walks.
Bring walking shoes, drinking water and a picnic or cash for food stalls. Entrance to the park is by shuttle from the gate, so please do not bring dogs and large items such as kayaks, fishing rods and large chilly bins.
Opening hours
From March 10, the park is open from 6am-9pm (daylight saving) and 6am-7pm (non-daylight saving). regionalparks.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz
