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Home / Travel

Waitangi: Haruru Falls put on mighty show

By Donna McIntyre
Weekend magazine·
30 Oct, 2015 11:18 PM4 mins to read

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Kayakers are treated to a show of birdlife and accounts of historic facts and happenings. Photo / Supplied

Kayakers are treated to a show of birdlife and accounts of historic facts and happenings. Photo / Supplied

Guided trip up Waitangi Estuary is a great introduction to kayaking, says Donna McIntyre.

We've already decided who's in charge of rudder steering front pedals as we ease ourselves into our double kayak, named MS Orca for reasons I'll explain later.

I've acquiesced that responsibility to my husband, thinking it will cause arguments if steerage starts to go a bit wobbly on these Bay of Islands waterways.

Jonathan Adams of Coastal Kayakers is taking us up the Waitangi Estuary. It's easy to spot the kayaking base; it's the red and grey shed just before the Waitangi one-way bridge.

We're a little early so we watch the bird life, check out the for sale signs on the beached Old Chelsea Sugar Boat, make our way over the bridge and along the lawns of this significant part of New Zealand.

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Once in the sit-in kayaks, we settle into a routine. I'm reminded that the rear passenger's pedals steer the rudders so there is no need to compensate with paddles when we are on the move.

The first part of our journey is the hardest as we go against the wind up the estuary. The tide is in our favour though, so it's a welcome workout to warm us up, and doesn't take long to get into more sheltered water.

We're treated to a show of birdlife. Jonathan points out oyster catchers, shags and spoonbills. He also fills us in on historic facts and happenings.

This is mangrove country so we learn about the birds' feeding habits. A few feathered friends put theory into practice, the shags in particular diving for their catches.

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The plan is to make our way up to Haruru Falls, and we're doing this around the high tide so we don't scrape the riverbed.

Photo / Supplied
Photo / Supplied

We continue, noticing the natural features and admiring waterside real estate. By this stage we've fallen into a routine, the repetitive rhythm of the paddles edge on being meditative as we glide along. And then I notice, sometimes it's just the regular rhythm of only one paddle; it seems he-in-charge-of-steering has decided kayaking isn't always about paddling, sometimes it's about enjoying the views while the one in front does the work.

Then he decides this is going to be a long trip if it's powered only by one person and he's back on task as we surge ahead to the falls. Jonathan had said the person in the front sets the pace, but the pace of course is doubled when two are on task.

With the amount of rain we've had, the Haruru Falls are impressive. Horseshoe-shaped, kind of like a mini Niagara, the water is thundering down and we nudge closer to appreciate nature's forces. Jonathan tells us about the Maori who lived here, the early Pakeha settlers and how some ship's crew hid behind the falls so they didn't have to return to England. The original overstayers.

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The trip takes about three-and-a-half to four hours, including a stop for a cuppa at one of the waterfront motels downriver after the falls. It's a chance to duck into the loo, stretch out legs and let shorts dry if you've been clever enough to wear quick-drying material. (We got caught in a rain shower.) And it's amazing how much flavour a couple of biscuits and a hot coffee have when you've done some physical exertion.

Refreshed, we slide back into the kayaks and with the wind in our favour on the return leg, we don't notice the effects of the tide still coming in.

A detour to one arm of the estuary is a great opportunity to weave in and out of mangroves.

Water at Haruru Falls thunders down. Photo / Supplied
Water at Haruru Falls thunders down. Photo / Supplied

Jonathan says this guided trip is a great way for newbies to experience kayaking. There is an age limit as they prefer not to take children under 5 because they tend to get bored.

This half trip is perfect for us but there are full day and longer trips and also the option to hire the kayaks and camp on magnificent Urupukapuka Island. Another popular trip is to the bird sanctuary, Aroha Island.

And the reference to MS Orca? That name came about because orcas have been spotted regularly when this double kayak goes out in the bay. What a special sight that would be. I'd even encourage my fellow paddler to stop and enjoy that view.

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Donna was a guest of Blah Blah Marketing & Events and coastalkayakers.co.nz

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