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Home / Travel

Waikato: Gearing up under Gold Mountain

By Paul Rush
Spy.co.nz·
19 Dec, 2015 04:00 PM6 mins to read

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Cycling the Hauraki Rail Trail.

Cycling the Hauraki Rail Trail.

Pedal powering along the historic Hauraki Rail Trail, Paul Rush has fun getting away from the big smoke.

The Karangahake Gorge between Paeroa and Waihi has always been one of my favourite places to explore. The area is redolent with gold mining heritage and has outstanding natural values for bushwalkers and mountain bikers alike.

The story of the gorge is a glittering tale of bright, shiny gold, extracted from the towering, hump-backed Mt Karangahake. One mine produced 3.5 million ounces between 1875 and 1920.

By a strange whim of fate, Thames and Karangahake (meaning the meeting of the humpbacks) began as mining camps but have had different outcomes.

Thames is now a thriving regional centre whereas Karangahake is a tiny settlement with a pleasant picnic area beside the Ohinemuri River.

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Over the years I have tramped along mysterious trails around the mountain and explored the wonderful Windows Walk in the Waitawheta Gorge that once resounded to the ear-splitting roar of 90 stamper batteries at the Talisman and Woodstock mines.

A honeycomb of tunnels and impressive mining relics point to the massive size of the Maria quartz reef, embedded on 16 levels within the great bulk of Mt Karangahake, virtually hollowing it out.

These gilded delights of the Karangahake Gorge are now incorporated as tourism gold in the Hauraki Rail Trail mountain biking route starting in Thames. This "must do" outdoor adventure was officially opened in May 2012 and is one of more than 20 New Zealand Great Rides.

There is an option of making the trail one large ride of about 80km or three smaller rides by having overnight stays in Paeroa, Waihi or Te Aroha.

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The route has a T configuration. The cross of the T forms a straight line north to south from Thames through Paeroa to Te Aroha. The trunk of the T is a side excursion from Paeroa to Waihi, the most scenic section.

The Hauraki Rail Trail Trust is planning a further extension across the head of the Firth of Thames to Kaiaua.

From Thames, the route runs along the Waihou River to Paeroa, turning east and following the Ohinemuri River into the Karangahake Gorge, skirting the river's true left bank all the way to Waikino Station, where refreshments can be enjoyed before continuing on to Waihi, then retracing the route back to Paeroa.

Returning to Paeroa along the gorge trail, cyclists can choose to stay overnight in the town, enjoy the local cafes and restaurants and visit the iconic 7m Lemon & Paeroa bottle that never runs dry. This monument to a soft drink that is "World Famous in New Zealand", looks like a rocket that is ready for lift-off.

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It certainly has lifted Paeroa's profile as a place to quench one's thirst as well as being an antique and curio shopping mecca. The town was voted the "Community of the Year" in 2012.

The final leg of the Hauraki Rail Trail is an easy, flat run from Paeroa to Te Aroha, a pretty Victorian spa town where visitors have come to "take the waters" for more than 120 years. A relaxing soak in the gushing soda water bath house is a fitting reward for completing the full ride. The soothing thermal spring water also guarantees a good night's sleep.

The Hauraki Rail Trail is a grade one, year-round riding trail with a smooth surface and gentle gradients.

It is suitable for riders of all ages, abilities and fitness levels and is negotiable by wheelchairs and pushchairs.

The track can be ridden in either direction and can be accessed from any of the four towns on the route. The trail is an integral part of Nga Haerenga (The Journeys) - the New Zealand Cycle Trail.

All outdoor lovers will enjoy the HRT as it is the easiest main cycle trail in New Zealand but offers a great variety of landscapes and delightful scenery.

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So dust off those mountain bikes, check the tyres, pack a water bottle and head out on a great cycle adventure through the peaceful Waikato countryside.

If you're a social cyclist, calculate your speed at a comfortable 12km/h to assess the overall time for the journey. But allow for diversions like prospecting for a glimmer of burnished metal under the gold mountain.

The track description is as follows.

Thames to Paeroa (34km)
Begin at the Thames i-Site at 206 Pollen St, head south down the street to the riverside track that joins the Thames Coastal Walkway. The Wharf Cafe is to your right.

Follow the signs out of town, riding alongside the main highway then under the highway and through farmland. At the 17km halfway point a sign indicates The Cheese Barn Cafe, located 500m off the trail to the left.

Hikutaia settlement is reached after a further 10km and offers refreshments and a rest in the Convenient Cow Cafe or the pub. Paeroa is another 12km, where riders can
re-energise in the cafe next to the Paeroa i-Site.

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Paeroa to Waihi (41km return)
Leaving the Paeroa i-Site on Seymour St, cross the road and follow the cycle trail south to the road bridge. Ride over the bridge on the footpath and join the trail on the left side of the road, passing a school and following a road into the Karangahake Gorge.

The trail skirts the Ohinemuri River, crossing bridges and meandering through forest, a long tunnel and past numerous historic gold-mining sites.

A headlight or torch is helpful in transiting the 1.2km tunnel. At Waikino Station there is a cafe and the opportunity to catch the vintage steam train to Waihi, rather than riding the last 6.5km.

Waihi township has a range of overnight accommodation and riders can enjoy the 4km Waihi Pit Run Track. Newmont Mining has a fascinating guided tour of the entire gold processing plant.

Paeroa to Te Aroha Station (21km)
From the Paeroa i-Site on Seymour St, cross the road and follow the cycle trail south to the road bridge. Cross the bridge on the footpath, join the trail on the right and ride the railway formation all the way to Te Aroha Station.

The station is two blocks from cafes and shops on the main street. The i-Site is at 102 Whitaker St.

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Bike hire
• Thames has bike hire outlets at Sunkist Backpackers, 506 Brown St. Rail Trails NZ, 407 Mackay St, also offers three-day and one-day guided tours, luggage transfer and shuttle bus service.
• Waihi has Waihi Bicycle Hire at 25 Seddon St next to the roundabout and 1km from the Goldfields Railway Station.
• Te Aroha has Hauraki Bike Hire at 176a Whitaker St that also provides shuttle services.

Paul Rush rode the cycle trail on a private trip. Courtesy photos were provided by Hauraki Rail Trail.

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