Waiheke Island escape

By MEGAN SINGLETON

Waiheke Island doesn't readily spring to mind when planning a quick getaway from Auckland. Surely a "real" holiday starts with packing the boot to capacity and driving for hours?

But the 30-minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland to Matiatia is a therapeutic way to leave the cares of the city behind.

It had been raining all day in the city and I was in two minds about whether to go. The last thing we wanted was a blustery ferry ride only to be shut indoors for the weekend. Besides, for $300 a couple a night we could stay in a swanky hotel in town. But I'm glad Louise talked us into it.

"It hasn't rained over here all day," she assured me.

So we packed our bags, with an essential bottle of red, and got a taxi to the ferry. Louise was right. In the half hour it took to get to Waiheke, the sky peeled back its dreary grey facade revealing a bright blue day. Even the temperature was a couple of degrees warmer.

We arrived at Matiatia and picked up a set of keys, waiting at the ticket office on the wharf, for Waikopou's jeep. The little Suzuki roared into life and before we knew it we were enjoying coffee in the sun in the tiny township of Ostend and salivating over properties in the real estate agents' windows.

Waikopou is self-catering and very remote, even though it's only 22km from Coromandel and 38km from Auckland. Louise had advised we wouldn't want to go out for dinner once we'd reached their place, so we bought chicken and pasta from Woolworths and set off on the half-hour drive to the furthest reaches.

Secluded roads eventually became a dirt track and finally we arrived at the cutest cottage I have ever seen, made entirely of earth bricks with rich rimu panelling and rustic slate floors. I can't believe it's only $300 a night.

Michael Holden and Louise Thomas have created a stunning retreat hidden in 9ha of bush overlooking Pakatoa, Rotoroa and Ponui Islands. They made most of the bricks themselves and have built four cottages, with their dream home under construction, but hidden from view allowing privacy. Away from the cottage, a flat, grassed area doubles as a helipad or wedding venue, with sweeping views all the way to Thames.

Inside and the fire was already roaring, classical music was playing on the stereo and sheepskin scuffs were waiting on the doormat as, Louise explained, the floor can be cold.

Influenced by Louise's three years in Japan, the best feature is the Japanese bath for a soak while looking at the native bush - that is if you can take your eyes off the view from the front. An instructional booklet, complete with illustrations, shows you what to do: shower first, then step into the tub and wallow for as long as you care to.

Michael, a lighting fanatic, has installed floodlights under the soaring kanuka trees gathered beyond the wide veranda. All we could do was pour the wine and clink our glasses to paradise.

The next morning the sun reached into the master bedroom and the sea reflected like tinfoil. We ate breakfast on the jasmine-draped veranda and wish we could spend days at this blissful retreat from city madness.

Best about Waikopou:

Slate-tiled Japanese bath

Wide veranda with stunning views

Man O War Bay five minutes by car for swimming and fishing; native bush walks with a soon-to-be completed track to the beach

Cosy fire

Slippers, bath robes, hairdryer; goose-down duvets

Library, desk, phone/fax machine, TV, video, stereo

Fully equipped kitchen and laundry

Gas barbecue

Non smoking

Children welcome

Disappointing:

It would have been good to have the option of dinner and breakfast provided.


Megan Singleton gives the Waikopou Waiheke Island Retreat an overall rating of 9/10.

CASE NOTES

Find it at:

Cowes Bay Rd, RD1

Waiheke Island

ph (09) 372 7883

info@waikopou.co.nz

Waikopou

Costs: $300 a couple a night, $100 for each extra person. Can sleep eight plus one cot

Access: The property is on one level but it does not have wheelchair access.

How to get there:

* Take your own car or hire Waikopou's jeep from Matiatia wharf for $50 a day.

* Fullers Ferry from Downtown Auckland: $24 return adult, $12 child. Ph 0800 Fullers, timetable ph (09) 367 9102, email enquiries@fullersakl.co.nz

* Subritzky Car Ferry from Half Moon Bay: $106 return a car, $24 adult, $12 child. Timetable ph (09) 534 5555; booking ph (09) 534 5663, email: info@subritzky.co.nz

* Chartered helicopter (including pick-up from Auckland International Airport):

Helilink

1 Solent St, Mechanics Bay, Auckland

ph (09) 377 4406 or 0800 206 406

helilink@helilink.co.nz

Hourly rate $700 plus GST (maximum five people). Time must include helicopter return to Auckland. Total cost approx $1400 for drop-off and pick-up.

Helilink

Heletranz

Heliport, Rosedale Rd, Albany

ph (09) 415 3550

team@heletranz.co.nz

From $720 each way (max six people)

Heletranz

* Megan Singleton was a guest of Waikopou Waiheke Island Retreat.