With antique gondolas and historic costumes the Regata Storica is a treat for the senses. Photo / Getty Images
All Italy stops to watch a spectacular boat race that's been contested for more than 700 years, writes Carol Smith.
Brightly coloured silk banners flap freely in the breeze while tourists jostle each other as they strain to catch a glimpse of them.
Canny locals have front row seats (and often a good supply of wine and cheese) as they eagerly await Venice's Regata Storica (historical regatta), the premier rowing event of the year.
All of Venice and half of Italy seems to be gathered at the Grand Canal. Shops are abandoned - people stop looking for carnival masks and Murano glass because the pomp and ceremony of times past is floating down the canal in the form of a historical parade that precedes the races.
Sixteenth century-style heavily gilded and adorned boats with gondoliers and crew in period costume carry the Doge, the Doge's wife and high-ranking Venetian officials up the canal.
In centuries past, the bissone (parade boats) would control the crowd by firing terracotta balote (shot) at troublemakers. Fortunately, today they are unarmed.
The array of vintage painted gondolas and the rich silk, brocade, velvet and linen historic costumes are a treat for the senses. Gondolas are black and have been since the Venetians passed a law banning painted gondolas in 1633 to control the rich, who were causing havoc as they vied with each other to have the best-looking transport.
Pitch was used for waterproofing in the 1600s, so an absence of paint meant the boats would end up black. The Government's boats were exempt - no surprise - so they could outshine the regulated boats.
It's only fitting that the gondolas are once again vying for attention before the real competition begins. Some sport huge statues on the front - lions are popular as Venice's patron saint, St Mark, is represented as a winged lion, with his paw on the gospel. As you walk this seafaring city you'll see the winged lion on flags, church sculptures, door handles and gates.
In the 16th century there were up to 10,000 gondolas in the canals, but nowadays the number has been whittled down to about 450.
Most agree the Regata Storica dates from the mid-13th century when Serenissima (the Most Serene Republic of Venice) needed to train the crews of its huge navy. The historic parade re-enacts the water parade organised in 1489 to celebrate the return to Venice of Caterina Cornaro, a member of one of the city's most powerful families. Caterina, who married the King of Cyprus, became queen following his death but was forced to abdicate and allow Venice to reign over Cyprus.
After an hour or so baking in the sun - the event, held on the first Sunday each September (this year's is on September 6), lasts from about 4pm to 7pm - we decide a good walk through some shady alleys and an early dinner is needed.
The silver-tongued waiters who usually tout for business outside the restaurants are absent. We choose a restaurant and find ours gathered around a television as they wait for the big race - the Campioni su Gondolini, in which small, sporting gondolas race down the Grand Canal to the finishing line at "machina", the floating stage in front of the Ca' Foscari palace.
Boys train for years to have the chance to flex their muscles and show their skill and strength in this race, although there is an opportunity for them, women (in two-oar boats once used by masked prostitutes) and mixed crews to take part in the day's other races.
Our food is late so we're drawn in to watch the main race. The small gondola-type boats go very fast - they're like Ferrari on water. Every neighbourhood in Venice has its own team and the crowd is screaming madly and waving when the rowers round the paleto, a turning post in the middle of the Grand Canal. This spot is where winners often take the lead.
The only other thing I've seen Italians this impassioned about is football - the TV hosts here are as entertaining as the game as they wave their arms about and argue constantly during matches.
By the time our food arrives, we're hooked on Venice and its passion for grand events. We leave the restaurant having made friends with the staff.
Outside it's party central, with performers in the piazzas, people eating and drinking and the usual boat population buzzing around the canals.
It's a magical feeling visiting a city where history is never forgotten and past and present happily coexist.
This year in Venice
Venice Art Biennale, until November 22
The 56th La Biennale (international art exhibition) takes place at the Giardini, the Arsenale, and at various other locations across the city.
Festa del Redentore, July 19-20
Since 1577, Venetians have celebrated their deliverance from a terrible plague. Il Redentore (Redeemer) church was built and each year the city celebrates as boats and gondolas gather on the lagoon. There is also a fireworks display. Venue: Giudecca Canal, from Sant'Elena to Punta della Dogana to the Palladio's Redentore church.
Venice Film Festival, September 2-12
Actress and director Elisa Sednaoui will host the opening and closing nights of Venezia 72. The event takes place on Lido island. Stay here (10-minute ferry ride from Venice) and enjoy the golden beaches.
Venice Marathon, October 25
Starts in Sta and finishes in the centre of Venice.
Festa della Salute, November 21
The Feast of Our Lady of Health, like Redentore, is in memory of a plague (1630-31) and the subsequent vow by the Doge to obtain the intercession of the Virgin Mary and build a church called the Salute. Thousands of people parade on November 21 before the main altar of the imposing Salute Church to give thanks.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: For details on a range of Holland America cruises aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam and other ships in their fleet, see hollandamerica.com.
The writer travelled to Venice with Holland America.
Lorraine van Been from House of Travel - Botany Junction shares her top tips on how to make the most of your Holland-America cruise.
1. Upgrade to a suite and enjoy more luxury space with complimentary laundry and a host of other inclusions, including a private lounge accessible only to suite clients.
2. Indulge and be pampered with a treatment at the gorgeous Greenhouse Spa and Salon.
3. Gather your new-found friends for an exceptional dining experience at Le Cirque - the ultimate in dining and not to be missed!
4. Take the opportunity to try something new like a technology or culinary arts workshop while on board.
5. In the evening, be entertained by one of the many musical productions or the popular Dancing with the Stars at Sea programme featuring professional dancers and celebrities (exclusive to Holland America line).
6. A personal favourite is the Antarctica cruise - a fabulous choice for those wanting to experience the beauty of this destination from the comfort of a ship.
For more information visit houseoftravel.co.nz
The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.