The view over Ogden toward the Great Salt Lake. Photo / Supplied
Alex Robertson enjoys incredible skiing at a resort in Utah with a rich history, loads of powder and an incredible number of runs.
Two small huts sit just under and to the left of Allen Peak, Snowbasin Resort's highest point at 2900m. One a little higher than the other, they were the starting gates for the men's and women's downhill, Super G and combined ski events at the 2002 Winter Olympics.
Back then, the groomers would spray on to the pistes water that at night would freeze into ice, making them slippery and speedier. The fastest man down the mountain, Austrian Fritz Strobl, managed the 2.86km run in just 1 minute 39.13 seconds and the top 10 finished in under 100 seconds, making it one of the fastest downhill courses of all time.
You can ski the double black Grizzly Downhill by taking the Allen Peak tram from the John Paul Lodge, pausing to take in the panoramic views across the city of Ogden to the Great Salt Lake beyond and, to the north and east on a clear day, the neighbouring states of Nevada, Idaho, Wyoming and Colorado.
Skiing down the 18 degree (average) from vertical face will take considerably longer than those fearless Olympians, not least because the seven and a half metres of annual snowfall is powdery and soft at this elevation.
The 1215ha of skiable terrain in the resort boundary contains multiple challenges, with powdery chutes flowing from aretes and peaks all along the northern aspect.
There are black runs from top to bottom here, but also plenty of nicely groomed trails for the complete novice, and for the average skier there's everything in between.
If you want powder without the fear factor, then cruising through glades of Aspen and Pine will bring a smile as wide as the expertly-groomed trails - Brigham Young's edict to make the roads of nearby Salt Lake City wide enough that a wagon team could turn around without its driver "resorting to profanity" holds true on this mountain, too.
Getting up the mountain can be nearly as quick as coming down. You're aided by two six-person gondolas (the cabins of the Needles Express are adorned with the names of every Winter Olympics champion), two high-speed quad chairs, four triples and the aforementioned 15-person tram ensuring access all areas.
The (rumoured) US$100 million ($151.5 million) upgrade of facilities for the 2002 Olympics still impresses, with resort-wide snow-making from October before the real stuff sets in, allowing for nearly six months of skiing and boarding.
Off the slopes, the truly impressive lodges will seriously challenge your dedication to snow sports. Luxuriously constructed buildings boast Canadian timber with stone facades, huge open fireplaces, English wool carpeting and Venetian glass chandeliers. Forget greasy chips, curly sandwiches and lumpy Milo; al la carte menus, real salads and steaks are offered with full wine lists, craft beers and surprisingly good coffee.
The John Paul Lodge has to be the most luxurious high mountain restaurant and watering hole anywhere in snowdom. The dining room is warmed by a four-sided fireplace large enough to stand up in and has the same full range of food and beverages offered elsewhere at the resort. The outside terraces provide al fresco dining or a place to relax on the sun loungers, beer in hand with breathtaking views of the Wasatch Mountains and the valley below.
The lodge got its name from the man whose black and white photograph hangs in the dining room.
John Paul Jones was a native of Ogden and a regular skier at Snowbasin before enlisting to serve in World War II. When the US Army learned of his skiing background he was drafted into the 10th Mountain Division - an elite troop of mountain rangers who could ski as well as fight. They wore white camouflage uniforms and could move quickly and quietly through mountains, forests and snow where enemy troops were unprepared. Nearly 1000 men of the 10th Mountain Division lost their lives in World War II; Jones' untimely death occurred at the Battle of Belvedere in Italy where the mountain men prevailed and were the first Allied unit to cross the Po River. Today, you can ski the terrain where he honed his skill.
Rest your head, raise your glass
Once the sun has set on Snowbasin and Powder Mountain, powder hounds and piste bunnies have plenty of options as to where to stay, shop, sight-see and have fun when the sun goes down.
For serious snow junkies who like to beat the sun to the top of the mountain, a condo or house in Huntsville, just 10 minutes from both resorts, will cost about US$100 ($152) a room. A condo has two to four bedrooms and a house sleeps up to 16. With limited entertainment - just the Shooting Star, Utah's oldest continuous running bar - self-catering is the name of the game.
There is the option of staying in Salt Lake City and all that this surprisingly liberal and well-catered-for domain has to offer, with many hotels, restaurants and bars to choose from. But you're facing an hour's commute both ways (a little more to reach Powder Mountain).
The city of Ogden offers the perfect compromise. Only 20 minutes from both resorts, this historic town offers a range of places to stay, from one-bedroom apartments to swanky hotels, great coffee, gourmet food, lively bars and plenty of entertainment should the weather turn.
Originally a transit stop on the Union Pacific Railroad, Ogden grew as an important communications and supply hub and was the birthplace of gun designer John Browning, creator of the Winchester 1897 pump-action shotgun, as well as 1970s family supergroup the Osmonds.
Ogden's 25th St is the historic centre, with predominantly brick two-storey buildings from the late 19th century lining the road. The Union Pacific building, housing an art gallery, cafe and railway museum sits at one end and a view up to Mt Allen and the Wasatch Mountains dominates the other end.
Shopping in the area includes the usual mall suspects as well as local institution Smith & Edwards, aka "the Country Boy Store", and the boutiques and antique shops of 25th St.
25th St is also the place to start when exploring the restaurant and nightlife of Ogden. You won't be out all that late, but you'll find enough to keep any urban withdrawal at bay.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies daily non-stop from Auckland to LA, with onward connections to Salt Lake City on airline partners United Airlines and Delta.
Accommodation: You're spoiled for choice. Check out Visit Ogden.
The writer was a guest of Utah Tourism, Visit Ogden and DriveAway Holidays.
Some domestic regional flights have been affected.