Oxford travel guide: Stay in historic colleges for less than hotels. Photo / Tim Alex, Unsplash
The historic city of Oxford is famed for its prestigious university, but few people know that Oxford college accommodation costs less than a hotel room, writes Simon Heptinstall.
From this side of the world, Oxford’s distant dreaming spires seem almost mythical. Ancient stone carvings, gothic towers and cobbled alleys seem more like a fantastical part of Harry Potter and Narnia than a small city in the middle of England.
One of Europe’s great historic city destinations soon becomes real enough for many visitors, however, thanks to its sky-high hotel and restaurant prices, and the frustration of staring at locked wooden gates of colleges apparently randomly closed to outsiders. Most tourists leave without getting the full inside story of this unique, fascinating city.
But I’ve just been there for a brilliant stay that was not only good fun and good value too – it was about getting a real authentic dose of Oxford student life.
The secret is to visit during Oxford University’s holiday times and stay inside one of the gorgeous historic colleges. That’s quite easy – the holidays actually take up more than half the year. Those students have quite an easy life!
I’m not just prejudiced, I can say this with some knowledge, because I was an Oxford student once, too. I recaptured the experience of university life by staying in an ivy-covered stone quadrangle behind old wooden gates of Brasenose College in the heart of the city. Best of all, the price of my double ensuite medieval room was £115 or (NZ$263), less than half the rate of most of Oxford’s standard hotels.
Okay, as you are now potential students, it’s time for a brief Oxford geography and history tutorial. The city is about 90km up the Thames northwest of London. It’s home to the Mini car factory, lots of riverside meadows and one of the world’s oldest universities. Oxford has been a global centre of learning for a thousand years.
It’s complicated to visit though. The university isn’t one unified thing. It’s dozens of very proudly independent colleges scattered across the city, each with its own gates, gardens, dining hall, accommodation and opening times. These colleges are the true heart of Oxford but hard to get inside.
My recent visit reminded me that architecturally, Oxford is astonishing. Medieval chapels sit beside classical buildings in leafy quadrangles under fairytale towers and shiny Gothic domes. More than 900 buildings within that central square mile are “listed” by the government as being historically important. You’ll wander narrow lanes that open suddenly into peaceful courtyards next to the old city wall or a tiny tributary of the Thames winding under overhanging willows. Dreaming spires, turrets and pinnacles rise above it all – and yes, they really do look like a fantasy novel.
But Oxford is not a museum. It’s young, international and alive. Students cycle everywhere clasping books and fill quirky old cafes and pubs with all sorts of enthusiastic intellectual conversations.
Essential sights are the Bodleian Library, one of the world’s oldest, biggest and most atmospheric, and the famous circular domed Radcliffe Camera reading room, standing in its grass square like a temple to academic learning.
Oxford has educated 12 kings, 47 Nobel prize-winners, 25 British Prime Ministers, 28 foreign presidents and prime ministers, seven saints, 86 archbishops, 18 cardinals and one pope. Seven of the last 11 British Prime Ministers have been Oxford graduates. Even Jacinda Ardern is an Oxford Fellow.
So many of the students are rich, important or just entitled, it’s no surprise colleges are more concerned with security and privacy than allowing visitors to freely wander around snapping selfies.
That’s why staying within a college lets you into this protected inner world. Choose the oldest possible rooms in one of the prettiest college quads near the city centre. I chose Brasenose front quad because I know it’s a gothic gem right next to the Radcliffe Camera.
Staying in a college like this lets you sleep where students live, walk through their private quads, libraries and gardens, and even eat in their wood-panelled refectories under paintings of historic alumni. You hear the old bells and clocks chime and there’s a special thrill passing through traditional porters’ lodges at any college entrance.
I love stepping out through the forbidding wooden gates to experience Oxford in the misty early morning or late at night when other visitors have gone.
Beware that colleges are designed for students not adults used to luxury hotels. You can find ensuite rooms with a double bed and TV but don’t expect minibars and room service. My wobbly old bedroom was through a low stone archway, had wooden ceiling beams, creaky floor and a strange thin third room that I had no idea what was for.
Bookings are best made through the independent universityrooms.com website or individual college websites. Prices and availability vary wildly but expect to find a double ensuite room B&B for between $220-$400 a night.
The writer travelled at their own expense.