UK holidays: Where to go in Edinburgh when you’ve done all the tourist sites

Escape the hordes in Edinburgh by discovering its lesser-known attractions. Photo / Getty Images

It’s a shame that so many visitors stick firmly to Edinburgh’s city centre, among a hot throng of tartan-clad guides. Ailsa Sheldon provides an alternative guide to Scotland’s capital city.

Edinburgh is a city of contrasts. Twisting wynds open out to gleaming modern buildings and Michelin-starred restaurants sit comfortably beside fish and chip shops. It’s a cosmopolitan city, home to some of Europe’s finest museums and art galleries. and of course the world’s largest performing arts festival. It’s also intensely local, made up of distinctive neighbourhoods with a village-like feel. Edinburgh is a very green city, full of parks and leafy public spaces, with a 19km river walkway running through the city, often hidden from street level. There’s a mountain in the middle, and a beach at Portobello.

Edinburgh is intensely local, made up of distinctive neighbourhoods with a village-like feel. Photo / Getty Images

Get lost in the Old Town

Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town together make up a Unesco world heritage site. The Old Town is likely to confound your satnav when South Bridge and George IV Bridge cross the Cowgate far below. Some streets are so narrow they barely appear on maps; others are a long flight of stairs. Embrace it: wear comfortable shoes and allow yourself to get a little lost. The Royal Mile, between Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace and The Scottish Parliament is lined with souvenir shops, with plenty of bagpipers and crowds.

Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town together make up a Unesco world heritage site. Photo / Getty Images

Escape the noise and discover the tiny closes and wynds (small lanes that lead off from the main street), and pends (covered walkways). Look out for Lady Stair’s Close, home to The Writers’ Museum and Makar’s Court, a peaceful haven in celebration of Scotland’s literary greats. Make sure to find Dunbar’s Close, and within, a beautiful 17th-century walled garden that isn’t visible from the street. The Old Town is also full of cafes and noodle bars and plenty of independent businesses - don’t miss Lighthouse Books, Edinburgh’s top radical bookshop.

Escape the noise and discover the tiny closes, home to places such as The Writers’ Museum. Photo / Getty Images

Get some elevation

Edinburgh is set over seven hills, so a brilliant way to get your bearings is by climbing one. Stretch your legs with a quick jaunt up Calton Hill. Many argue this is the best view in Edinburgh as you can see the castle, Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags, and explore the distinctive buildings that dominate the skyline - including Scotland’s National Monument and the City Observatory. You can dine on the hill if you book in at The Lookout, which is perched on the side of the hill with jaw-dropping floor-to-ceiling windows and equally impressive food.

Climbing Arthur’s Seat is possible with sturdy footwear, good weather and a reasonable level of fitness. From the summit on a good day, you can enjoy wide-ranging views of the whole city, across to the Pentlands and the Lammermuir Hills, over the water to East Lothian and Fife, and up the Firth of Forth to the Forth Bridges. Alternatively, visit The National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street, a vast and fascinating museum, with an excellent roof terrace view.

Stretch your legs with a quick jaunt up Calton Hill. Photo / Julia Solonina; Unsplash

Find riverside walks and modern art

Stockbridge is one of Edinburgh’s loveliest neighbourhoods, full of cafes, restaurants and bookshops. From here join the Water of Leith Walkway at Saunders Place to visit St. Bernard’s Well, ridiculously pretty Dean Village, and on to the incredible collections of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. When hunger calls, return to Stockbridge. Try newly opened Skua for small plates and bold flavours, or wine bar Smith & Gertrude for a cheese and wine flight. From Stockbridge, it’s a short walk to the Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh. With a history going back to the 17th century, these gorgeous gardens are both an important botanical collection and a delight to visit - with more than over 28 hectares to explore.

Stockbridge is one of Edinburgh’s loveliest neighbourhoods. Photo / Getty Images

Eat and drink in Leith

In Edinburgh, the port neighbourhood of Leith has the highest density of Michelin-starred and listed restaurants outside London. Quite an achievement for an area once infamous for drug issues and destitution (Irvine Welsh set his novels here, including Trainspotting, in the early 1990s). Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood, youthful and multicultural, and the city’s creative heart. In 2021, Time Out magazine listed Leith as the fourth coolest neighbourhood in the world. Just 3.2km from the city centre, Leith can be reached on foot, by bus and by tram.

Leith has the highest density of Michelin-starred and listed restaurants outside London. Photo / Rayan de Zeeuw on Unsplash

For an unforgettable dining experience, book a table at Heron for the tasting menu. The young chefs gained their Michelin star last year. For a slap-up seafood meal try the Ship on the Shore, and for a hearty pub meal head to The Roseleaf. Leith is also where you’ll want to be after hours for cocktails at The Three Marys, crisp pints at Nobles or, for a traditional pub and a seat by the Water of Leith, try The King’s Wark, Teuchter’s Landing or The Malt and Hops.

For more things to do in Edinburgh and Scotland, see visitscotland.com