Motse accommodation at Tswalu private reserve in South Africa. Photo / Supplied
At Tswalu in South Africa, diamond tycoon Jonathan Oppenheimer has created the kind of luxury safari that most of us can only dream about, writes Catherine McGregor
It was when the mountains caught fire that we started to worry. A summer storm had rolled in over the Korannaberg ranges and lightning was slashing through the vast desert skies, setting the hillside alight before quickly being extinguished by the torrential rain. On the verandah, the clink of ice in our pre-dinner cocktails was being drowned out by the roar of thunder. It was time to go inside.
The summer rains bring life to the Kalahari Desert, the arid sandy savanna that straddles the border of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. At Tswalu Kalahari reserve in South Africa the rain can transform the parched land literally overnight. The landscape, once barren, is suddenly carpeted by thick tufted grass, spiky gemsbok cucumbers and tiny yellow dubbeltjie (little devil) flowers. For visitors, the odd lightning strike is a small price to pay for such abundance.
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Located on the southern edge of the Kalahari, not far from the Botswana border, Tswalu is a truly unique safari experience. The property has been owned since 1999 by the billionaire Oppenheimer family, who once controlled the majority of South Africa’s diamond industry through their controlling stake in De Beers and now use their immense wealth to support their conservation and philanthropic efforts. Tswalu is not only South Africa’s largest private wildlife reserve, but arguably its most remote, at around 10 hours’ drive from either Cape Town or Johannesburg. Isolated and ultra exclusive, Tswalu just might be the ultimate destination safari.
The distance by road doesn’t bother most guests, since hardly any of them drive. Tswalu has its own private airport and offers a direct charter air service from both Johannesburg or Cape Town. For Tswalu’s mega wealthy clientele, flying in is a no-brainer. That airstrip is a game-changer, says Nigel Pace, Tswalu’s head of hospitality. “Yes, we’re really remote – but in terms of access, we’re actually easier to get to than places like Kruger or Sabi Sands.”
After touchdown, guests are collected by their drivers and depart for one of three luxury camps dotted across the vast reserve. Motse, Tswalu’s original camp, features nine guest suites, or legae (“home” in the local Setswana language) and has the feel of a relaxed-chic boutique hotel. The recently opened Loapi is a collection of six extraordinarily beautiful tented camps, each with a dedicated homathi (house manager) and chef. All six Loapi residences are located at least 100m from each other, with no communal or shared guest areas or services, allowing for an incredibly private stay.
My stay was at Tarkuni, an exclusive-use homestead designed for multi-generational families or parties of friends. Tarkuni accommodates up to 10 guests in five suites, each with their own private verandah, arranged around a living area featuring a spectacular double-height fireplace. Upstairs is a spa treatment suite and games room; out the front is a swimming pool and waterhole where baboons and antelope regularly come to drink.
With a total maximum of 40 guests in an area almost twice the size of urban Auckland, it’s hardly surprising that the word “private” comes up so much at Tswalu. If you’re staying at Loapi and Tarkuni, you can quite easily avoid ever seeing another soul, save for your own small team of staff. On top of that, every booking guarantees you a private 4×4 safari vehicle, including a dedicated guide and tracker, for the duration of your stay. More than anything, it’s this that puts Tswalu a cut above most other luxury safari experiences.
Having your own vehicle doesn’t only give you privacy – it makes each game drive a totally personalised experience. Want to focus on tracking lesser-known sub-species like the desert black rhino? No problem. Want to stay out all day? Can do. Tswalu’s guides and trackers know the reserve like the back of their hands, and are trained to create for you the most memorable safari experience possible. As your stay continues, your priorities can change, and the value of a private vehicle only increases. With your own vehicle, you’ll never find yourself stuck with day-one newbies who need the safari basics explained or want to stop to photograph every passing kudu – although if that’s something you still want to do, that’s absolutely okay too.
A Tswalu safari is as unique as the land itself. The aridity of the Kalahari means you won’t see any elephants or hippos here, and the sheer size of the reserve can sometimes make spotting animals a challenge. Don’t arrive expecting a Kruger-style wildlife buffet, but that doesn’t mean you won’t see plenty of amazing sights, like a lioness and her cubs contentedly chowing down on a zebra carcass at the edge of a water hole. For 10 minutes we sat quietly in our vehicle, snapping photos from just a few metres away, as the desert sun slowly set behind the horizon.
While it isn’t the place to spot the Big 5 around every corner, Tswalu boasts a remarkable number of species that are rarely seen elsewhere. Along with more common species like oryx, wildebeest, cheetah, buffalo, zebra and giraffe, the reserve is a wonderful place to see rare and endangered species including the Kalahari black-maned lion, desert black rhino and African wild dog. Tswalu offers a lucky few the chance to see the Temmick’s pangolin, one of the world’s most elusive mammals; if you get the chance to accompany the resident pangolin scientists on a nocturnal research outing, grab it.
Tswalu is also home to multiple colonies of meerkats, who have become used to human visitors through a painstaking habituating process. These charmingly gregarious creatures are best spotted in the early morning as they leave their burrows for the day, or at dusk, when they return. Like all wild creatures, however, no viewing is ever guaranteed. Despite the best efforts of Tswalu’s tracking team, we sadly didn’t see any meerkats on our visit. It’s a tribute to the power of the Kalahari landscape that our sunrise walk to the burrows, and the Jeep-side breakfast afterwards – magicked seemingly out of thin air by our guide – remains one of my favourite memories of our stay.
Along with preserving wildlife, making memories is what Tswalu is all about. On our drive back to the homestead, our guide told us that bush dining is one of the experiences guests request most often – whether that means a fully hosted braai with butler service and a mobile kitchen for a group, or a secluded gourmet picnic for two (with a staff vehicle positioned nearby, just in case). Other once-in-a-lifetime experiences include a night under the stars in one of Tswalu’s “star beds”, private camps whose level of luxury puts most other glamp-outs to shame.
There’s one special Tswalu experience that towers above all others, and that’s dinner at Klein Jan, the incredible on-site restaurant founded by Michelin-starred South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen. It’s the sort of dining experience that relies in part on the element of surprise – so if eating here is on your bucket list, look away now. The magic begins when you pull up outside what appeared to be a ramshackle farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. This is actually the Klein Jan entrance building, where we sat on the stoep, or verandah, and drank cocktails as the thunderstorm rolled in.
We were guided through the farmhouse and into a door on the side of what looked like a disused water tank. Suddenly we were descending a staircase wrapped around a waterfall, then led through more jewel-box spaces and into a spectacular glass-walled dining room. While Klein Jan is open to non-guests for lunch – people fly in and out just to spend a few hours eating here – dinner is for Tswalu guests only, and is included with every two-night stay. The tasting menu at Klein Jan is a journey through both South African culinary history and the natural world of the Kalahari, utilising such unfamiliar ingredients (at least to me) as fever berry, xigugu (a traditional corn and peanut paste), kaiings (crackling) and boerbok (South African goat). As we ate, lightning carved through the sky, the landscape fleetingly illuminated before being plunged back into the inky black darkness of a desert night.
The next morning dawned clear and bright, the previous evening’s torrential rain already absorbed by the thirsty red sand. For our last experience, we were going horse riding – a prospect that initially had me slightly anxious, but which, I was assured, was perfectly safe in this part of the reserve. After the exhilaration of the previous few days, a quiet hour on horseback was the ideal end to our stay. With no engine noise or whirr of camera shutters, we could hear the Kalahari’s birds bursting into song in celebration of the rain. Above, the desert sky was enormous and blue; around us, the ochre sand was stippled with summer green. At our dismounting site, the riding guides removed our horses’ saddles and bridles. As we climbed into our Jeep for the last time, the horses set off at a gallop, back across the savannah and towards home.
For more things to see and do in South Africa, see southafrica.net
Catherine McGregor visited Tswalu Kalahari with support from South Africa Tourism and Viva Expeditions
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