In an extract from Day Walks in New Zealand, Te Whara Track, at the head of the Whāngārei Harbour, follows the route of an historic Ngātiwai trail.
TE WHARA TRACKBREAM HEAD SCENIC RESERVE
At the head of Whāngārei Harbour several peaks rise monolithically, their sheerness and close proximity to
the sea lending them a stature that belies their modest heights. At 475m Te Whara/Bream Head is the highest of these, the eroded stump of a volcano that formed 20 million years ago; Manaia and Mt Lion are the other two prominent peaks.
Botanically, Bream Head is of national importance, containing Northland's largest remaining broadleaf–pōhutukawa forest and some locally endemic species. Like many other areas in New Zealand, Bream Head has attracted the attention of local conservationists, who are developing a pest-free haven for such species as kākā and kiwi.
Of the many walks available in the area, Te Whara Track is the most challenging, and follows the route of a historic Ngātiwai trail. It links Ocean Beach with Urquharts Bay, traversing en route the summits of Bream Head and Mt Lion, with a side trip to Peach Cove possible too. Walkers can expect some steep terrain, on a well-marked tramping track. The rewards are outstanding views, superb sandy beaches and much of historic interest too. Carry plenty of drinking water, and make sure you clean your boots before and after the walk to avoid spreading kauri dieback disease.
Ocean Beach to Bream Head and Peach Cove Track junction 2.5–3 hours
Follow the white sands of Ocean Beach eastwards for five minutes before picking up a track that climbs on to grassy slopes. Soon, views of the Bream Islands and the more distant Poor Knights Islands unfold. After a 40-minute climb, past a small automated lighthouse, the track reaches a World War II naval radar station base built in 1942. Although little remains of the station buildings, the rusting radar is visible, tucked into the nearby bush with the dramatic rock spire known as the Old Woman beyond.
The track enters forest and continues to climb until reaching the ridge crest near Bream Head. A side-track leads up to a viewpoint on the head (475m), but it will tempt only more agile walkers who have a good head for heights. On a clear day, walkers can see as far south as Cape Rodney and as far north as Rākaumangamanga/Cape Brett.
