The turquoise waters of Lumi i Shales. Photo / Andrew Sluys
From fascinating relics from its relatively recent communist era to breathtaking scenery, there are many reasons to visit Albania before the crowds do, writes Andrew Sluys.
Coming across a dilapidated American warplane perched atop the walls of a 12th-century castle was not something I’d thought would happen during our time in Albania. But looking back, this is the perfect example of why this Eastern European country is one of the most interesting you can visit.
When my partner and I told friends and family we were spending a few weeks in Albania, the most common reaction was confusion. Sure, Eastern Europe is gaining popularity amongst travellers, but you’d be far more likely to end up in Croatia, sipping prosecco on the back of a boat for a couple of weeks. We settled on Albania for two reasons: the incredible scenery, and how budget-friendly everyone said it was. The latter was particularly pertinent as we were visiting in the height of summer, when our New Zealand dollars wouldn’t go as far elsewhere.
So, if you’re seeking an Eastern European gem, here are some spots in Albania worth a visit.
Our adventure begins upon landing in Tirana, Albania’s capital city. As soon as we clear customs and get into the taxi, the chaotic energy of the city becomes clear. I can best describe it as a mix between the aesthetic of Portugal with the vibe of a bustling Southeast Asian metropolis.
While we only spend a couple of nights in Tirana, I make sure to pay a visit to the House of Leaves, located right in the centre of town. This award-winning museum offers an astounding insight into how the communist-era Albanian secret service spied on its own population from the end of World War II through to 1991. What starts as a quirky spy exhibition, quickly turns serious with the real-world implications of an oppressive government, so prepare yourself for a sobering experience.
After two nights in the hustle and bustle of Tirana, we board a bus bound for Gjirokaster. Once the home of Albania’s communist leader Enver Hoxha, Gjirokaster is a charming city, sitting in a valley between towering mountains, and drenched in history. Though the main city is in the valley, I’d recommend looking for accommodation up in the old town, tucked beneath the castle. Here, the narrow cobblestone streets tell stories of simpler times, with traditional Albanian restaurants offering local delicacies.
The main attraction here is the castle, sprawling across the hill above the old town. This is where I encounter the aforementioned American warplane, kept company by a variety of wartime relics. The Cold War Tunnel is the other attraction I’d highly recommend visiting while in town. While the majority of Cold War bunkers have been destroyed or shut off from the public, this remains one of the most intact iterations, showing how real the threat of nuclear war was in this part of the world. In total, we spend three nights in Gjirokaster, which feels like the perfect amount of time to enjoy this charismatic town.
Following Gjirokaster, we jump on another bus towards the coastal town of Himare. While many tourists opt for Sarande for their beach time in Albania, we wanted a quieter option, and were more than happy with our choice. Interestingly, this area of Albania is primarily populated by an ethnic Greek community, which explains the Mediterranean vibe.
Turquoise ocean waters contrast against white cliffs, and you never seem to be more than a few minutes from somewhere that sells good gyros. As far as beaches go, several clubs rent out umbrellas and chairs for the day, or you can opt for the main beach, where BYO umbrellas are the common choice. I can’t stress enough how much Himarë felt like a far more popular European seaside location, for a fraction of the price.
Aside from the beaches, the seafood Himare offers cannot be missed. Almost every restaurant will offer some variation on the classic seafood basket with fresh fish, calamari and prawns.
Lake Komani was the last stop of our Albania itinerary, and I had extremely high hopes for it. To access this relatively remote part of the country, we bus from Himarë to Tirana, and then to Shkoder. From Shkoder, it takes about two hours in a shuttle, winding deep into the Albanian Alps, before arriving at Koman dam. It then takes about an hour by boat to reach the riverside accommodation, which is something that must be seen to be believed.
With towering mountains on either side and beautiful, tepid water to swim in, this area of the lake could be described as Milford Sound with warm weather. Though the Riverside Komani Lake guesthouse offers luxuries such as air conditioning and Wi-Fi, it’s quite basic by modern standards, with a restaurant serving meat, fish or vegetable options.
From here, the Riverside Komani Lake guesthouse offers guests a free service to Lumi i Shales; the most popular attraction in the area. This beach-like area of the river has become quite commercialised, with hotels, restaurants, and vendors sprawled across the area.
Like the bottom of New Zealand’s South Island, the waters can look deceptively appealing here but the crystal clear glacier-fed river isn’t far off freezing. Though it’s a pleasant trip to see this part of the river, I likely wouldn’t do it again and instead spend more time at the guesthouse enjoying the warmer water.
With its beautiful beaches, rich culture, and breathtaking landscapes, Albania is a rare gem of Eastern Europe. Where countries like Greece and Croatia have built reputations as tourist hotspots in this part of the world, far more value can be found in Albania for those in search of something different.
The journalist travelled independently.