As droplets of water build up on my sunglasses and a pool forms on my spray skirt, I respond with a defiant "Yeee haaaa", yelling at the top of my voice. The wind carries the sound away in an instant. I defy the wind and waves to overwhelm me and my seaworthy kayak. I know in my heart that I won't let them succeed.
Tucking in under the protection of 30m bluffs, we high-five in celebration after overcoming our first nautical challenge. This is the renowned Swallows Cave. The water is still, deep and incredibly clear. Overhead there's a dizzying aerial display of darting, diving and swooping swiftlets. I duck my head instinctively, fearing an avian attack, but the lively birds are harmless.
The cave margins are a dark void, but the main pool offers an amazing light show, as rays of sunlight penetrate the deep blue column of water, illuminating schools of languid fish, seemingly suspended in mid-water. Bright beams of sunlight angle down through the entry slot, painting the surface royal blue, like a tropical version of the Blue Grotto on Italy's Isle of Capri.
The seabed is 20m down but seems far less. I feel the urge to swim down and fraternise with the lazy fish, but at a mere 10m my lungs are screaming in protest and my brain is willing me back to the surface. My admiration for Kiwi world record holder, William Trubridge, soars instantly.
Skirting the palm-fringed shoreline of Kapa Island, we glide through crystal-clear aqua water with a moderate headwind, skimming through the lonely, protected anchorage of Port Maurelle. Explorer Francisco Maurelle moored here in 1781, naming Vava'u's main harbour Port of Refuge.
This exquisite group of Tonga's 50 northern islands lies just to the west of the International Date Line. Life moves at a languid pace here and the secret to a Tongan holiday is to relax into Tonga Time.
As Nuku Atoll looms up ahead on our circumnavigation of Kapa Island, the sheer natural beauty of the 5ha of pure white coral takes me by surprise. It's the most photographed island in the kingdom of Tonga and a favourite of sailors, kayakers and snorkellers.
We see countless species of tropical fish in all colours of the rainbow as well as nudibranchs, anemones, cephalopods and many species of coral.
Amethyst and emerald parrotfish show off their impressive size with hubris and haughtiness. Black and white sergeant majors parade around the coral bommies, while yellow angelfish dart about and then abruptly stop and hover motionless as if bowed in fervent prayer.
Turning the southern point Kapa Island, a familiar feeling of heading for home flows over me.
Fortunately the trade wind is now my friend, favouring our tiny flotilla with a following breeze. Ahead is the Jewel of Vava'u, Mala Island, the perfect cliche for a fantasy island - a place to linger and luxuriate for a week or more. However, we are homeward bound, already looking forward to a hot shower and a Tongan seafood basket for our evening meal.
Nature's exquisite marine-land of Vava'u, with its turquoise waters and endless blue skies will have to wait for our return. One trip to paradise is never enough.
Checklist
Getting there
Air New Zealand operates direct three-hour flights from Auckland to Tonga daily, except Sundays. One-way fares start from $199. Local air services fly the 50 minutes to Lupepau'u Airport in Vava'u from Fua'amotu. airnz.co.nz
